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This passage gives the flavor of Ibn Fadlan's descriptions of travel。 Perhaps a quarter of the entire manuscript is written in this fashion； simply listing the names of settlements and the number of days spent at each。 Most of this material has been deleted。
Apparently； Ibn Fadlan's party is traveling northward； and eventually they are required to halt for winter。
Our stay in Gurganiya was lengthy； we stayed there some days of the month of Ragab ＇November＇ and during the whole of Saban； Ramadan； and Sawwal。 Our long stay was brought about by the cold and its bitterness。 Verily； they told me that two men took camels into the forests to get wood。 They forgot； however； to take flint and tinder with them； and hence slept in the night without a fire。 When they got up the next morning； they found the camels had been frozen stiff from the cold。
Verily； I beheld the marketplace and streets of Gurganiya pletely deserted because of the cold。 One could stroll the streets without meeting anyone。 Once as I came out of my bath； I entered my house and looked at my beard； which was a lump of ice。 I had to thaw it out before the fire。 I lived night and day in a house that was inside another house； in which a Turkish felt tent was pitched； and I myself was wrapped up in many clothes and fur rugs。 But in spite of all this； my cheeks often stuck to the pillow at night。
In this extremity of cold； I saw that the earth sometimes forms great cracks； and a large and ancient tree may split into two halves from this。
About the middle of Sawwal of the year 309 ＇February； 922＇； the weather began to change； the river thawed； and we got ourselves the necessary things for the journey。 We bought Turkish camels and skin boats made out of camel hides； in preparation for the rivers we would have to cross in the land of Turks。
We laid in a supply of bread； millet； and salted meat for three months。 Our acquaintances in the town directed us in laying in garments； as much as was needed。 They depicted the ing hardships in fearful terms； and we believed they exaggerated the story； yet when we underwent this； it was far greater than what had been told to us。
Each of us put on a jacket； over that a coat； over that a tulup； over that a burka； and a helmet of felt out of which only the two eyes could look。 We also had a simple pair of underdrawers with trousers over them； and house shoes and over these another pair of boots。 When one of us got on a camel； he could not move because of his clothes。
The doctor of the law and the teacher and the pages who traveled with us from Bagdad departed from us now； fearing to enter this new country； so 1； the ambassador； his brother…in…law and two pages； Takin and Bars； proceeded。1
The caravan was ready to start。 We took into our service a guide from the inhabitants of the town whose name was Qlawus。 Then； trusting in the all…powerful and exalted God； we started on Monday； the third of Dulqada of the year 309 ＇March 3； 922＇ from the town Gurganiya。
That same day； we stopped at the burg called Zamgan： that is； the gateway to the Turks。 The next morning early； we proceeded to Git。 There so much snow fell that the camels plunged in it up to their knees； hence we halted two days。
Then we sped straight into the land of the Turks without meeting anyone on the barren and even steppe。 We rode ten days in bitter cold and unbroken snowstorms； in parison with which the cold in Chwarezm seemed like a summer day； so that we forgot all our previous disforts and were about at the point of giving up。
One day when we underwent the most savage cold weather； Takin the page was riding next to me； and along with him one of the Turks； who was talking to him in Turkish。 Takin laughed and said to me； 〃This Turk says； 'What will our Lord have of us？ He is killing us with cold。 If we knew what he wanted； we would let him have it。' 〃
And then I said； 〃Tell him He only wishes that you say； 'There is no God save Allah。' 〃
The Turk laughed and answered； 〃If I knew it； I would say it。〃
Then we came to a forest where there was a large quantity of dry wood and we halted。 The caravan lit fires； we warmed ourselves； took off our clothes； and spread them out to dry。
Apparently； Ibn Fadlan's party was entering a warmer region； because he makes no further reference to extreme cold。
We set out again and rode every day from midnight until the time of the afternoon prayer…hastening more from midday on…and then we halted。 When we had ridden fifteen nights in this manner； we arrived at a large mountain with many great rocks。 There are springs there； that jet out from the rocks and the water stays in pools。 From this place； we crossed on until we reached a Turkish tribe； which is called the Oguz。
THE WAYS OF THE OGUZ TURKS
THE OGUZ ARE NOMADS AND HAVE HOUSES OF felt。 They stay for a time in one place and then travel on。 Their dwellings are placed here and there according to nomadic custom。 Although they lead a hard existence； they are like asses gone astray。 They have no religious bonds with God。 They never pray； but instead call their headmen Lords。 When one of them takes counsel with his chief about something； he says； 〃O Lord； what shall I do in this or that matter？〃
Their undertakings are based upon counsel solely among themselves。 I have heard them say； 〃There is no God but Allah and Muhammad is the prophet of Allah；〃 but they speak thus so as to get close to any Muslims； and not because they believe it。
The ruler of the Oguz Turks is called Yabgu。 That is the name of the ruler and everyone who rules over this tribe bears the name。 His subordinate is always called Kudarkin and so each subordinate to a chieftain is called Kudarkin。
The Oguz do not wash themselves after either defecation or urination； nor do they bathe after ejaculation； or on other occasions。 They have nothing whatever to do with water； especially in winter。 No merchants or other Muhammadans may perform ablution in their presence except in the night when the Turks do not see it； for they get angry and say； 〃This man wishes to put a spell on us； for he is immersing himself in water；〃 and they pel him to pay a fine。
None of the Muhammadans can enter Turkish country until one of the Oguz agrees to bee his host； with whom he stays and for whom he brings garments from the land of Islam； and for his wife some pepper； millet； raisins； and nuts。 When the Muslim es to his host； the latter pitches a tent for him and brings him sheep； so that the Muslim may himself slaughter the sheep。 The Turks never slaughter； they beat the sheep on the head until it is dead。
Oguz women never veil themselves in the presence of their own men or others。 Nor does the woman cover any of her bodily parts in the presence of any person。 One day we stopped off with a Turk and were seated in his tent。 The man's wife was present。 As we conversed； the woman uncovered her pudendum and scratched it； and we saw her doing so。 We veiled our faces and said； 〃I beg God's pardon。〃 At this her husband laughed and said to the interpreter； 〃Tell them we uncover it in your presence so that you may see it and be abashed； but it is not to be attained。 This is bett