按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
charge were too heavy to carry； and； before men could be found to assist him； they would have been secured by the robbers； who knew well where to look for them。 In the rare event； however； of the supply of personal pluck proving equal to such an occasion； how many of us； for the reasons given； having a well…armed white panion at hand； would have neglected to summon him to take his part in the fray？ A man must be very brave and very unselfish indeed to choose to face a band of Mexican cut…throats when a word would bring a rade to his side。
I may add that his conduct was foolish as well as unselfish； since in such a business two can fire quicker than one。 Also the sound of his first shot would of course have wakened me with the result that I should have rushed； bewildered and unprepared； into the fray and probably have been cut down before I understood the situation。
However； as it happened； we escaped； thanks to that noble animal； the dog。 So did the cold…blooded villains who had planned our murder in order to enrich themselves。
What a land of bloodshed Mexico has been； is still； in this year of revolution； and some prophetic spirit tempts me to add； shall be！ The curse of the bloody Aztec gods seems to rest upon its head。 There； from generation to generation； blood calls for blood。 And yet； if only it were inhabited by some righteous race； what a land it might be with its richness and its beauty！ For my part； I believe that it would be well for it if it should pass into the power of the United States。
From this place of a forgotten name we proceeded to the mine on mules。 It was a fearful journey； but how long it took to acplish I cannot remember。 For the first part of it the road； if it could be called a road； consisted of a kind of corduroy of little ridges with mud…holes of from one to three feet deep between them； which had been gradually hollowed out by the feet of mules； the ridges being those portions of the ground on which these did not tread。 As heavy rains had fallen and； indeed； were still falling； the pleasures of such a ride may well be imagined。 Once we stopped at a hacienda where there was a cocoa plantation that I was told produced a great deal of money in that fertile soil。 I shall never forget the place； or at least the impression it produced upon me。 In a long low room a fat half…breed； its owner； was swinging in a hammock； or rather being swung by Indian girls。 Terrible stories were told of such men and their poor Indian slaves in these remote places； for in practice slaves they still remained； especially with reference to young women who grew up upon their estates。 Whether things have bettered since that day I do not know； but； if certain works that I have read are true； I gather that in such matters they remain much the same as they were two hundred years ago。
After the corduroy road plains we passed into the mountains where； by the hollowing action of water； the tracks had been reduced to a kind of ditch floored with a butter of red clay。 Here there were precipices； along the edges of which we ambled。 One spot remains firmly fixed upon my mind。 The path along the precipice had been broken away and a new one made a little further up the hillside。 When we reached the place I tried to turn my mule to this upper path。 But the wooden…mouthed brute was of a different opinion。 Baggage mules； I should explain； always prefer the edge of a precipice； because their burdens are less likely to be knocked by projecting rocks or other mules。 Therefore； this beast that I rode insisted upon taking the lower path。 The natural result followed： we began to descend the red butter slide with great rapidity。 There was neither time nor room to dismount。 All appeared to be over； since a few yards in front； the path having； as I said； been washed away； was empty space。 However； just in time； the mule itself awoke to the situation。 I presume that its inherited experience told it that to be dashed to pieces is not agreeable。 At any rate it put on some kind of vacuum brake of its own； with the result that we pulled up at the extremest edge of nothingness； indeed； it seemed to me that when our slide came to its end all the creature’s four feet were gathered in a round that might have been covered by a Mexican priest’s hat。 Afterwards that same mule； the most inpetent surely of all its kind； fell with me in the midst of a flooded river。
Another such river we were obliged to cross seated in a loop of string which was slung upon a rope； quite an exciting mode of progression。 Upon the occasion of Mr。 Jebb’s previous visit to this mine either the loop or the rope broke； and the cook who was making the journey went to a watery grave。
We slept a night in a saw…mill that had been established by the mining pany upon the banks of a great river。 I remember that at dawn I went to bathe in this river； and was struck with the marvellous beauty of the scene。 The face of the water was covered with clouds of floating mist； while above； rising in tiers from the steep banks of the river； appeared the motionless； solemn trees。 And then the indescribable silence and the utter loneliness。 The great primeval forest beyond this river was very wonderful； at any rate to me who had never seen its like。 Here grew vast trees with rib…like roots that ran far up the trunk； and between the trees imperable thickets of Indian Shot — Canna； I think； is the right name — twenty feet and more in height。 When the Indians wish to grow a crop of maize they burn a patch of this Canna scrub and sow the seed in the rich ash…fertilised soil； where it bears abundantly。
These Indians of remoter Mexico are strange； sad creatures whose demeanour suggests that the woes and wickedness heaped upon their forefathers by the cruel Spaniards have never faded from the minds of the descendants。 In body they are handsome and often stately； but their souls seem crushed。 Now they； whose race once was free and great； as the mighty ruins show； are but hewers of wood and drawers of water whom the white man kills if they venture to cross his desire。 On the narrow mountain paths or in the depths of the vast forests the traveller meets them toiling forward under the weight of some tremendous load。 Humbly the poor creatures； in whose veins perhaps flows the blood of Montezuma； draw aside and stand resting on their long sticks while the white lords pass。 Then once more they begin their patient journeyings。
By the way； I saw a very curious “mackintosh” in use among these Chiapas Indians。 It consisted of two huge leaves； I suppose of some water plant； which were fastened together at the base； leaving a hole for the wearer’s head。 These leaves； thus arranged； hung to below the middle before and behind； and were impermeable even to the tropical Mexican rain。 A long line of men clad in them presented the strangest of sights。
We arrived at the mine at last； and spent some days there。 It was in the charge of an English gentleman whose name I am sorry to say I have quite forgotten； but who received us with much kindness。 He had built himself； or the pany had built for him； a long low house with a verandah and some spare rooms； in one of which I slept。 After the mosquito…haunted canoe and our noct