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r me。 The entire town took sides； and even men who disliked me； and who I certainly dislike； like C。 W。 and R of the Paris Embassy； turned in and fought for my getting in like relations。 And the womenI had grand dukes and ambassadors and princes； whom I do not know by sight； moving every lever； and as Stanhope of The Herald； testified 〃every man； woman and child in the visiting and resident legation is crazy on the subject of getting Davis into the coronation。〃 They made it a personal matter； and when I got my little blue badge； the women kissed me and each other； and cheered； and the men came to congratulate me； and acted exactly as though they had got it themselves。
It was a beautiful sight； the Czarina much more beautiful and more sad…looking than ever before。 But it was not solemn enough； and the priests groaned and wailed and chanted and sang； and every one stood still and listened。 All that the Czar and Czarina did was over ten minutes after they entered the chapel； and then for three hours the priests took the center of the stage and groaned。 I was there from seven until one。 Six solid hours standing and writing on my hat。 It was a fine hat； for we were in court costume； I being a distinguished visitor； as well as a correspondent。 That was another thing that annoyed me； because Breckinridge； who has acted like a brick； did not think he could put me on both lists； so I chose the correspondents' list； of course； in hopes of seeing the ceremony； but knowing all the time that that meant no balls or functions； so that had I lost the ceremony I would have had nothing； but he arranged it so that I am on both lists。 Not that I care now。 For I am tired to death； and Trowbridge did not get on either list； thanks to the damned Journal and to his using all his friends to help me； so that I guess I will get out and go to Buda Pest and meet you in Paris。 Do not consider this too seriously； for I am writing it just after finishing my cable and having spent the morning on my toes in the chapel。 I will feel better tomorrow。 Anyway； it is done and I am glad； as it was the sight of the century； and I was in it； and now I can spend my good time and money in gay Paree。 Love to all。
DICK。
From Moscow Richard went direct to Buda Pest； where he wrote an article on the Hungarian Millennial。
BUDA PEST
CHAS： May 8th； 1896。
I have just returned from the procession of the Hungarian Nobles。 It was even more beautiful and more interesting than the Czar's entry than which I would not have believed anything could have been more impressive But the first was military； except for the carriages； which were like something out of fairylandto…day； the costumes were all different and mediaeval； some nine hundred years old and none nearer than the 15th Century。 The mis en scene was also much better。 Buda is a clean； old burgh； with yellow houses rising on a steep green hill； red roofs and towers and domes； showing out of the trees It is very high but very steep and the procession wound in and out like a fairy picture I sat on the top of the hill； looking down it to the Danube； which separates Buda from Pest The Emperor sat across the square about 75 yards from our tribune in the balcony of his palace。 We sat in the Palace yard and the procession passed and turned in front of us There were about 1；500 nobles； each dressed to suit himself； in costumes that had descended for generationsof brocade； silk； fur； and gold and silver cloth Each costume averaged； with the trappings of the horse； 5；000 dollars。 Some cost 1；000； some 15；000。 Some wore complete suits of chain armor； with bearskins and great black eagle feathers on their spears just as they were when they invaded Rome Others wore gold chain armor and leopard or wolf skins and their horses were studded with turquoises and trappings of gold and silver and smothered in silver coins It would have been ridiculous if they had not been the real thing in every detail and if you had not known how terribly in earnest the men were。 There is no other country in the world where men change from the most blase and correct of beings； to fairy princes in tights and feathers and jewelled belts and satin coats They were an hour in passing and each one seemed more beautiful than the others I am very glad I came although I was disappointed at missing the accident at Moscow。 It must have been more terrible than Johnstown。 I found the s quite converted into the most awful snobs but the people they worship are as simple and well bred as all gentle people are and I have had the most delightful time with them。 It is so small and quiet after Moscow； and instead of being lost in an avalanche of embassies and suites and missions； I have a distinct personality； as 〃the American；〃 which I share with 〃the〃 Frenchman and four Englishmen。 We are the only six strangers and they give us the run of all that is going on At night we dine at the most remarkable club in the world； on the border of the Park； where the best of all the Gypsey musicians plays for us The music is alone worth having come to hear； and the dear souls who play it； having been told that I like it follow me all around the terrace and sit down three feet away and fix their eyes on you； and then proceed to pull your nerves and heart out of you for an hour at a time One night a man here dipped a ten thousand franc note in his champagne and pasted it on the leader's violin and bowed his thanks； and the leader bowed in return and the next morning sent him the note back in an envelope； saying that the compliment was worth more than the money The leader's name is Berchey and the Hungarians have never allowed him to leave the country for fear he would not be allowed to come back He is a fat； half drunken looking man； with his eyes full of tears half the time he plays。 He looks just like a setter dog and he is so terribly in earnest that when he fixes me with his eyes and plays at me； the court ladies all get up and move their chairs out of his way just as though he were a somnambulist
I leave here Wednesday and reach Paris Friday MORNING the eleventh You must try to meet me at the Cafe de la Paix at half past nine Wait in the corner room if you don't wish to sit outside and as soon as I get washed I will join you for coffee。 It will be fine to see you again and to be done with jumping about from hotel to hotel and to be able to read the signs and to know how to ask for food。 Russian； German and Hungarian have made French seem like my mother tongue
DICK。
CHAPTER X
CAMPAIGNING IN CUBA AND GREECE
In December； 1896； Richard and Frederic Remington； the artist； were commissioned by the New York Journal to visit Cuba which was then at war with Spain。 It was their intention to go from Key West in the Vamoose； a very fast but frail steam…launch； and to make a landing at some uninhabited point on the Cuban coast。 After this their plans seem to have been to trust to luck and the kindliness of the revolutionists。 After waiting for some time at Key West for favorable weather； they at last started out on a dark night to make the crossing。 A few hours after the Vamoose had left Key West a hea