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adventures and letters-第20章

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ty and had luncheon with the Viscount St。 Cyres to meet Lord and Lady Coleridge。  St。 Cyres is very shy and well…bred; and we would have had a good time had not the M。 P。's present been filled with awe of the Lord Chief Justice and failed to draw him out。  As it was he told some very funny stories; then we went to tea with Hubert Howard; in whose rooms I live and am now writing; and met some stupid English women and shy girls。  Then we dined with the dons at New College; socalled because it is eight hundred years old。  We sat at a high table in a big hall hung with pictures and lit by candles。  The under…grads sat beneath in gowns and rattled pewter mugs。  We all wore evening dress and those that had them red and white fur collars。  After dinner we left the room according to some process of selection; carrying our napkins with us。  We entered a room called the Commons; where we drank wines and ate nuts and raisins。  It was all very solemn and dull and very dignified。  Outside it was quite light although nine o'clock。  Then we marched to another room where there were cigars and brandy and soda; but Arthur Pollen and I had to go and take coffee with the Master of Balliol; the only individual of whom Pollen stands in the least awe。  He was a dear old man who said; 〃O yes; you're from India;〃 and on my saying 〃No; from America〃; he said; 〃O yes; it's the other one。〃  I found the other one was an Indian princess in a cashmere cloak and diamonds; who looked so proud and lovely and beautiful that I wanted to take her out to one of the seats in the quadrangle and let her weep on my shoulder。  How she lives among these cold people I cannot understand。  We were all to go to a concert in the chapel; and half of the party started off; but the Master's wife said; 〃Oh; I am sure the Master expects them to wait for him in the hall。  It is always done。〃  At which all the women made fluttering remarks of sympathy and the men raced off to bring the others back。  Only the Indian girl and I remained undisturbed and puzzled。  The party came back; but the Master saw them and said; 〃Well; it does not matter; but it is generally done。〃  At which we all felt guilty。  When we got to the chapel everybody stood up until the Master's party sat down; but as it was broken in the middle of the procession; they sat down; and then; seeing we had not all passed; got up again; so that I felt like saying; 〃As you were; men;〃 as they do out West in the barracks。  Then Lord Coleridge in taking off his overcoat took off his undercoat; too; and stood unconscious of the fact before the whole of Oxford。  The faces of the audience which packed the place were something wonderful to see; their desire to laugh at a tall; red…faced man who looks like a bucolic Bill Nye struggling into his coat; and then horror at seeing the Chief Justice in his shirt…sleeves; was a terrible effortand no one would help him; on the principle; I suppose; that the Queen of Spain has no legs。 He would have been struggling yet if I had not; after watching him and Lady Coleridge struggling with him; for a full minute; taken his coat and firmly pulled the old gentleman into it; at which he turned his head and winked。

I will go back to town by the first to see the Derby and will get into lodgings there。  I AM HAVING A VERY GOOD TIME AND AM VERY WELL。  The place is as beautiful as one expects and yet all the time startling one with its beauty。

DICK。


When the season at Oxford was over Richard returned to London and took a big sunny suite of rooms in the Albany。  Here he settled down to learn all he could of London; its ways and its people。  In New York he had already met a number of English men and women distinguished in various walks of life; and with these as a nucleus he soon extended his circle of friends until it became as large as it was varied。  In his youth; and indeed throughout his life; Richard had the greatest affection for England and the English。  No truer American ever lived; but he thought the United States and Great Britain were bound by ties that must endure always。  He admired British habits; their cosmopolitanism and the very simplicity of their mode of living。  He loved their country life; and the swirl of London never failed to thrill him。  During the last half of his life Richard had perhaps as many intimate friends in London as in New York。  His fresh point of view; his very eagerness to understand theirs; made them welcome him more as one of their own people than as a stranger。   LONDON; June 3; 1892。 DEAR FAMILY:

I went out to the Derby on Wednesday and think it is the most interesting thing I ever saw over here。  It is SO like these people never to have seen it。  It seems to be chiefly composed of costermongers and Americans。  I got a box…seat on a public coach and went out at ten。  We rode for three hours in a procession of donkey shays; omnibuses; coaches; carriages; vans; advertising wagons; every sort of conveyance stretching for sixteen miles; and with people lining the sides to look on。  I spent my time when I got there wandering around over the grounds; which were like Barnum's circus multiplied by thousands。  It was a beautiful day and quite the most remarkable sight of my life。  Much more wonderful than Johnstown; so you see it must have impressed me。  We were five hours getting back; the people singing all the way and pelting one another and saying funny impudent things。

My rooms are something gorgeous。  They are on the first floor; looking into Piccadilly from a court; and they are filled with Hogarth's prints; old silver; blue and white china; Zulu weapons and fur rugs; and easy chairs of India silk。  You never saw such rooms!  And a very good servant; who cooks and valets me and runs errands and takes such good care of me that last night Cust and Balfour called at one to get some supper and he would not let them in。  Think of having the Leader of the House of Commons come to ask you for food and having him sent away。  Burdett…Coutts heard of my being here in the papers and wrote me to dine with him tonight。  I lunched with the Tennants today; no relation to Mrs。 Stanley; and it was informal and funny rather。  The Earl of Spender was there and Lord Pembroke and a lot of women。  They got up and walked about and changed places and seemed to know one another better than we do at home。  I think I will go down to Oxford for Whitsuntide; which is a heathen institution here which sends everyone away just as I want to meet them。

I haven't written anything yet。  I find it hard to do so。  I think I would rather wait until I get home for the most of it。  Chas。 will be here in less than a week now and we will have a good time。  I have planned it out for days。  He must go to Oxford and meet those boys; and then; if he wishes; on to Eastnor; which I learn since my return is one of the show places of England。  I am enjoying myself; it is needless to say; very much; and am well and happy。

DICK。


During these first days in England Richard spent much of his time at Eastnor; Lady Brownlow's place in Lincolnshire; and one of the most beautiful estates in England。  Harry Cust; to whom my brother frequently refers in his letters; was the nephew of Lady Brownlow;
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