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adventures and letters-第19章

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I am now en route to Creede。  Creede when you first see it in print looks like creede but after you have been in Denver or Colorado even for one day it reads like C R E E D E。  All the men on this car think they are going to make their fortunes; and toward that end they have on new boots and flannel shirts; and some of them seeing my beautiful clothing and careful array came over and confided to me that they were really not so tough as they looked and had never worn a flannel shirt before。  This car is typical of what they told me I would find at Creede。  There are rich mine owners who are pointed out by the conductor as the fifth part owner of the 〃Pot Luck〃 mine; and dudes in astrakan fur coats over top boots and new flannel shirts; and hardened old timers with their bedding and tin pans; who have prospected all over the state and women who are smoking and drinking。

I feel awfully selfish whenever I look out of the car window。  Switzerland which I have never seen is a spot on the map compared to this。  The mountains go up with snow on one side and black rows of trees and rocks on the other; and the clouds seem packed down between them。  The sun on the snow and the peaks peering above the clouds is all new to me and so very beautiful that I would like to buy a mountain and call it after my best girl。  I will finish this when I get to Creede。  I expect to make my fortune there。 DICK。

CREEDE; March 7。

A young man in a sweater and top boots met me at the depot and said that I was Mr。 Davis and that he was a young man whose life I had written in 〃There was 90 and 9。〃  He was from Buffalo and was editing a paper in Creede。  He said I was to stop with him Creede is built of new pine boards and lies between two immense mountains covered with pines and snow。  The town is built in the gulley and when the spring freshets come will be a second Johnstown。  Faber; the young man; took me to the Grub State Cabin where I found two most amusing dudes and thoroughbred sports from Boston; Harvard men living in a cabin ten by eight with four bunks and a stove; two banjos and H O P E。  They own numerous silver mines; lots; and shares; but I do not believe they have five dollars in cash amongst them。  They have a large picture of myself for one of the ORNAMENTS and are great good fellows。  We sat up in our bunks until two this morning talking and are planning to go to Africa and Mexico and Asia Minor together。Lots of love。 DICK。


Very happy indeed to be back in his beloved town; Richard returned to New York late in March; 1892; and resumed his editorial duties。  But on this occasion his stay was of particularly short duration; and in May; he started for his long…wished…for visit to London。  The season there was not yet in full swing; and after spending a few days in town; journeyed to Oxford; where he settled down to amuse himself and collect material for his first articles on English life as he found it。  In writing of this visit to Oxford; H。 J。 Whigham; one of Richard's oldest friends; and who afterward served with him in several campaigns; said:

〃When we first met Richard Harding Davis he was living; to all practical purposes; the life of an undergraduate at Balliol College; Oxford。  Anyone at all conversant with the customs of universities; especially with the idiosyncrasies of Oxford; knows that for a person who is not an undergraduate to share the life of undergraduates on equal terms; to take part in their adventures; to be admitted to their confidence is more difficult than it is for the camel to pass through the eye of a needle or for the rich man to enter heaven。  It was characteristic of Davis that although he was a few years older than the average university 〃man〃 and came from a strange country and; moreover; had no official reason for being at Oxford at all; he was accepted as one of themselves by the Balliol undergraduates; in fact; lived in Balliol for at least a college term; and happening to fall in with a somewhat enterprising generation of Balliol men he took the lead in several escapades which have been written into Oxford history。  There is in the makeup of the best type of college undergraduate a wonderful spirit of adventure; an unprejudiced view of life; an almost Quixotic feeling for romance; a disdain of sordid or materialistic motives; which together make the years spent at a great university the most golden of the average man's career。  These characteristics Davis was fortunate enough to retain through all the years of his life。  The same spirit that took him out with a band of Oxford youths to break down an iron barrier set by an insolent landowner across the navigable waters of Shakespeare's Avon carried him; in after years; to the battlefields where Greece fought against the yoke of Turkey; to the insurrecto camps of Cuba; to the dark horrors of the Congo; to Manchuria; where gallant Japan beat back the overwhelming power of Russia; to Belgium; where he saw the legions of Germany trampling over the prostrate bodies of a small people。  Romance was never dead while Davis was alive。〃

That Richard lost no time in making friends at Oxford as; indeed; he never failed to do wherever he went; the following letters to his mother would seem to show:


OXFORDMay; 1892。 DEAR FAMILY:

I came down here on Saturday morning with the Peels; who gave an enormous boating party and luncheon on a tiny little island。  The day was beautiful with a warm brilliant sun; and the river was just as narrow and pretty as the head of the Squan river; and with old walls and college buildings added。  We had the prettiest Mrs。 Peel in our boat and Mrs。 Joseph Chamberlain; who was Miss Endicott and who is very sweet and pretty。  We raced the other punts and rowboats and soon; after much splashing and exertion; reached the head of the river。  Then we went to; tea in New College and to see the sights of the different colleges now on the Thames。  The barges of the colleges; painted different colors and gilded like circus band…wagons and decorated with coats of arms and flying great flags; lined the one shore for a quarter of a mile and were covered by girls in pretty frocks and under…grads in blazers。  Then the boats came into sight one after another with the men running alongside on the towpath。  This was one of the most remarkable sights of the country so far。  There were over six hundred men coming six abreast; falling and stumbling and pushing; shouting and firing pistols。  It sounded like a cavalry charge and the line seemed endless。  The whole thing was most theatrical and effective。  Then we went to the annual dinner of the Palmerston Club; where I made a speech which was; as there is no one else to tell you; well received; 〃being frequently interrupted with applause;〃 from both the diners and the ladies in the gallery。  It was about Free Trade and the way America was misrepresented in the English papers; and composed of funny stories which had nothing to do with the speech。  I did not know I was going to speak until I got there; and considering the fact; as Wilson says; that your uncle was playing on a strange table with a crooked cue he did very well。  The next morning we breakfasted with the Bursar of Trinity and had lunc
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