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We woke up as we were passing along the Rhone。 Soon the continued noise
of crickets came in through the windows； that cry which seems to be the
voice of the warm earth； the song of Provence； and seemed to instill into
our looks； our breasts； and our souls the light and happy feeling of the
south； that odor of the parched earth； of the stony and light soil of the
olive with its gray…green foliage。
When the train stopped again a railway guard ran along the train calling
out 〃Valence〃 in a sonorous voice； with an accent that again gave us a
taste of that Provence which the shrill note of the crickets had already
imparted to us。
Nothing fresh happened till we got to Marseilles； where we alighted for
breakfast； but when we returned to our carriage we found a woman
installed there。
Paul； with a delighted glance at me； gave his short mustache a mechanical
twirl； and passed his fingers through his； hair； which。 had become
slightly out of order with the night's journey。 Then he sat down
opposite the newcomer。
Whenever I happen to see a striking new face； either in travelling or in
society； I always have the strongest inclination to find out what
character； mind； and intellectual capacities are hidden beneath those
features。
She was a young and pretty woman； certainly a native of the south of
France； with splendid eyes； beautiful wavy black hair； which was so thick
and long that it seemed almost too heavy for her head。 She was dressed
with a certain southern bad taste which made her look a little vulgar。
Her regular features had none of the grace and finish of the refined
races； of that slight delicacy which members of the aristocracy inherit
from their birth； and which is the hereditary mark of thinner blood。
Her bracelets were too big to be of gold； she wore earrings with large
white stones that were certainly not diamonds； and she belonged
unmistakably to the People。 One surmised that she would talk too loud；
and shout on every occasion with exaggerated gestures。
When the train started she remained motionless in her place； in the
attitude of a woman who was indignant； without even looking at us。
Paul began to talk to me； evidently with an eye to effect； trying to
attract her attention； as shopkeepers expose their choice wares to catch
the notice of passersby。
She； however； did not appear to be paying the least attention。
〃Toulon！ Ten minutes to wait！ Refreshment room！〃 the porters shouted。
Paul motioned to me to get out； and as soon as we had done so； he said：
〃I wonder who on earth she can be？〃
I began to laugh。 〃I am sure I don't know； and I don't in the least
care。〃
He was quite excited。
〃She is an uncommonly fresh and pretty girl。 What eyes she has； and how
cross she looks。 She must have been dreadfully worried； for she takes no
notice of anything。〃
〃You will have all your trouble for nothing；〃 I growled。
He began to lose his temper。
〃I am not taking any trouble； my dear fellow。 I think her an extremely
pretty woman； that is all。 If one could only speak to her！ But I don't
know how to begin。 Cannot you give me an idea？ Can't you guess who she
is？〃
〃Upon my word； I cannot。 However； I should rather think she is some
strolling actress who is going to rejoin her company after a love
adventure。〃
He seemed quite upset； as if I had said something insulting。
〃What makes you think that？ On the contrary； I think she looks most
respectable。〃
〃Just look at her bracelets；〃 I said； 〃her earrings and her whole dress。
I should not be the least surprised if she were a dancer or a circus
rider； but most likely a dancer。 Her whole style smacks very much of the
theatre。〃
He evidently did not like the idea。
〃She is much too young； I am sure； why； she is hardly twenty。〃
〃Well；〃 I replied； 〃there are many things which one can do before one is
twenty； dancing and elocution are among them。〃
〃Take your seats for Nice； Vintimiglia；〃 the guards and porters called。
We got in； our fellow passenger was eating an orange； and certainly she
did not do it elegantly。 She had spread her pocket…handkerchief on her
knees； and the way in which she tore off the peel and opened her mouth to
put in the pieces； and then spat the pips out of the window； showed that
her training had been decidedly vulgar。
She seemed； also； more put out than ever； and swallowed the fruit with an
exceedingly comic air of rage。
Paul devoured her with his eyes； and tried to attract her attention and
excite her curiosity； but in spite of his talk； and of the manner in
which he brought in well…known names； she did not pay the least attention
to him。
After passing Frejus and St。 Raphael； the train passed through a
veritable garden； a paradise of roses； and groves of oranges and lemons
covered with fruits and flowers at the same time。 That delightful coast
from Marseilles to Genoa is a kingdom of perfumes in a home of flowers。
June is the time to see it in all its beauty； when in every narrow valley
and on every slope； the most exquisite flowers are growing luxuriantly。
And the roses！ fields； hedges； groves of roses。 They climb up the walls；
blossom on the roofs； hang from the trees； peep out from among the
bushes； they are white； red； yellow； large and small； single； with a
simple self…colored dress； or full and heavy in brilliant toilettes。
Their breath makes the air heavy and relaxing； and the still more
penetrating odor of the orange blossoms sweetens the atmosphere till it
might almost be called the refinement of odor。
The shore； with its brown rocks； was bathed by the motionless
Mediterranean。 The hot summer sun stretched like a fiery cloth over the
mountains； over the long expanses of sand； and over the motionless；
apparently solid blue sea。 The train went on through the tunnels； along
the slopes； above the water； on straight； wall…like viaducts； and a soft；
vague； saltish smell； a smell of drying seaweed； mingled at times with
the strong； heavy perfume of the flowers。
But Paul neither saw； looked at； nor smelled anything； for our fellow
traveller engrossed all his attention。
When we reached Cannes； as he wished to speak to me he signed to me to
get out； and as soon as I did so； he took me by the arm。
〃Do you know； she is really charming。 Just look at her eyes； and I never
saw anything like her hair。〃
〃Don't excite yourself；〃 I replied； 〃or else address her； if you have any
intentions that way。 She does not look unapproachable； I fancy； although
she appear to be a little bit grumpy。〃
〃Why don't you speak to her？〃 he said。
〃I don't know what to say； for I am always terribly stupid at first； I
can never make advances to a woman in the street。 I follow them； go
round and round them； and quite close to them； but never know what to say
at first。 I only once tried to enter into conversation with a woman in
that way。 As I clearly saw that she was waiting for me to make
overtures； and as I felt bound to say something； I stammered out； 'I hope
you are quite well； madame？' She laughed in my face； and I made my
escape。〃
I promised Paul to do all I could to bring about a conversation；