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ter meals but 〃wasted〃 their time at billiards and cards。 The passion for billiards was notorious； and taverns in the most out…of…the…way places； though they lacked the most ordinary conveniences； were nevertheless provided with billiard tables。 This custom seems to have been especially true in the South； and it is significant that the first taxes in Tennessee levied before the beginning of the nineteenth century were the poll tax and taxes on billiard tables and studhorses！
》From Norfolk Baily passed northward to Baltimore； paying a fare of ten dollars； and from there he went on to Philadelphia； paying six dollars more。 On the way his stagecoach stuck fast in a bog and the passengers were compelled to leave it until the next morning。 This sixty…mile road out of Baltimore was evidently one of the worst in the East。 Ten years prior to this date； Brissot； a keen French journalist； mentions the great ruts in its heavy clay soil； the overturned trees which blocked the way； and the unexampled skilfulness of the stage drivers。 All travelers in America； though differing on almost every other subject； invariably praise the ability of these sturdy； weather…beaten American drivers； their kindness to their horses； and their attention to their passengers。 Harriet Martineau stated that； in her experience； American drivers as a class were marked by the merciful temper which accompanies genius； and their perfection in their art； their fertility of resource； and the gentleness with which they treated female fears and fretfulness； were exemplary。
In the City of Brotherly Love Baily notes the geniality of the people； who by many travelers are called aristocratic； and comments on Quaker opposition to the theater and the inconsequence of the Peale Museum； which travelers a generation later highly praise。 Proceeding to New York at a cost of six dollars； he is struck by the uncouthness of the public buildings； churches excepted； the widespread passion for music； dancing； and the theater； the craze for sleighing； and the promise which the harbor gave of becoming the finest in America。 Not a few travelers in this early period gave expression to their belief in the future greatness of New York City。 These prophecies； taken in connection with the investment of eight millions of dollars which New Yorkers made in toll…roads in the first seven years of this new century； incline one to believe that the influence of the Erie Canal as a factor in the development of the city may have been unduly emphasized； great though it was。
》From New York Baily returned to Baltimore and went on to Washington。 The records of all travelers to the site of the new national capital give much the same picture of the countryside。 It was a land worn out by tobacco culture and variously described as 〃dried up；〃 〃run down；〃 and 〃hung out to dry。〃 Even George Washington； at Mount Vernon； was giving up tobacco culture and was attempting new crops by a system of rotation。 Cotton was being grown in Maryland； but little care was given to its culture and manufacture。 Tobacco was graded in Virginia in accordance with the rigidity of its inspection at Hanover Court House； Pittsburgh； Richmond； and Cabin…Point： leaf worth sixteen shillings at Richmond was worth twenty…one at Hanover Court House； if it was refused at all places； it was smuggled to the West Indies or consumed in the country。 Meadows were rapidly taking the place of tobacco…fields； for the planters preferred to clear new land rather than to enrich the old。
At Washington Baily found that lots to the value of 278；000 had been sold； although only one…half of the proposed city had been 〃cleared。〃 It was to be forty years ere travelers could speak respectfully of what is now the beautiful city of Washington。 In these earlier days； the streets were mudholes divided by vacant fields and 〃beautified by trees； swamps； and cows。〃
Departing for the West by way of Frederick； Baily； like all travelers； was intensely interested upon entering the rich limestone region which stretched from Pennsylvania far down into Virginia。 It was occupied in part by the Pennsylvania Dutch and was so famous for its rich milk that it was called by many travelers the 〃Bonnyclabber Country。〃 Most Englishmen were delighted with this region because they found here the good old English breed of horses； that is； the English hunter developed into a stout coach…horse。 Of native breeds； Baily found animals of all degrees of strength and size down to hackneys of fourteen hands； as well as the 〃vile dog…horses；〃 or packhorses； whose faithful service to the frontier could in no wise be appreciated by a foreigner。
This region of Pennsylvania was as noted for its wagons as for its horses。 It was this wheat…bearing belt that made the common freight…wagon in its colors of red and blue a national institution。 It was in this region of rich； well…watered land that the maple tree gained its reputation。 Men even prophesied that its delightful sap would prove a cure for slavery； for； if one family could make fifteen hundred pounds of maple sugar in a season； eighty thousand families could； at the same rate； equal the output of cane sugar each year from Santo Domingo！
The traveler at the beginning of the century noticed a change in the temper of the people as well as a change in the soil when the Bonnyclabber Country was reached。 The time…serving attitude of the good people of the East now gave place to a 〃consciousness of independence〃 due； Baily remarks； to the fact that each man was self…sufficient and passed his life 〃without regard to the smiles and frowns of men in power。〃 This spirit was handsomely illustrated in the case of one burly Westerner who was 〃churched〃 for fighting。 Showing a surly attitude to the deacon…judges who sat on his case； he was threatened with civil prosecution and imprisonment。 〃I don't want freedom；〃 he is said to have replied； bitterly； 〃I don't even want to live if I can't knock down a man who calls me a liar。〃
Pushing on westward by way of historic Sideling Hill and Bedford to Statlers； Baily found here a prosperous millstone quarry； which sold its stones at from fifteen to thirty dollars a pair。 Twelve years earlier Washington had prophesied that the Alleghanies would soon be furnishing millstones equal to the best English burr。 As he crossed the mountains Baily found that taverns charged the following schedule： breakfast； eighteen pence； dinner and supper from two shillings to two shillings and sixpence each。 Traversing Laurel Hill； he reached Pittsburgh just at the time when it was awakening to activity as the trading center of the West。
In order to descend the Ohio； Baily obtained a flatboat； thirty…six feet long and twelve feet broad； which drew eighteen inches of water and was of ten tons burden。 On the way downstream； Charleston and Wheeling were the principal settlements which Baily first noted。 Ebenezer Zane； the founder of Wheeling； had just opened across Ohio the famous landward route from the Monongahela country to Kentucky； which it entered at Limestone； the present Maysville。 This famous road； passing through Zanesville； Lancaster； and Chillicothe； though at that time safe only for men in parties； was a common