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ships moored bows on opposite the long； slightly curved；
continuous flat wall of the tall houses that seemed to be one
immense abandoned building with innumerable windows shuttered
closely。 Only here and there a small dingy cafe for sailors cast
a yellow gleam on the bluish sheen of the flagstones。 Passing
by； one heard a deep murmur of voices insidenothing more。 How
quiet everything was at the end of the quays on the last night on
which I went out for a service cruise as a guest of the
Marseilles pilots！ Not a footstep； except my own； not a sigh；
not a whispering echo of the usual revelry going on in the narrow
unspeakable lanes of the Old Town reached my earand suddenly；
with a terrific jingling rattle of iron and glass； the omnibus of
the Jolliette on its last journey swung round the corner of the
dead wall which faces across the paved road the characteristic
angular mass of the Fort St。 Jean。 Three horses trotted abreast
with the clatter of hoofs on the granite setts； and the yellow；
uproarious machine jolted violently behind them； fantastic；
lighted up； perfectly empty and with the driver apparently asleep
on his swaying perch above that amazing racket。 I flattened
myself against the wall and gasped。 It was a stunning
experience。 Then after staggering on a few paces in the shadow
of the Fort casting a darkness more intense than that of a
clouded night upon the canal； I saw the tiny light of a lantern
standing on the quay； and became aware of muffled figures making
towards it from various directions。 Pilots of the Third Company
hastening to embark。 Too sleepy to be talkative they step on
board in silence。 But a few low grunts and an enormous yawn are
heard。 Somebody even ejaculates： 〃Ah！ Coquin de sort！〃 and
sighs wearily at his hard fate。
The patron of the Third Company （there were five companies of
pilots at that time； I believe） is the brother…in…law of my
friend Solary （Baptistin）； a broad…shouldered； deep…chested man
of forty； with a keen； frank glance which always seeks your eyes。
He greets me by a low； hearty； 〃He； l'ami。 Comment va？〃 With
his clipped moustache and massive open face； energetic and at the
same time placid in expression； he is a fine specimen of the
southerner of the calm type。 For there is such a type in which
the volatile southern passion is transmuted into solid force。 He
is fair； but no one could mistake him for a man of the north even
by the dim gleam of the lantern standing on the quay。 He is
worth a dozen of your ordinary Normans or Bretons； but then； in
the whole immense sweep of the Mediterranean shores； you could
not find half a dozen men of his stamp。
Standing by the tiller； he pulls out his watch from under a thick
jacket and bends his head over it in the light cast into the
boat。 Time's up。 His pleasant voice commands in a quiet
undertone 〃Larguez。〃 A suddenly projected arm snatches the
lantern off the quayand； warped along by a line at first； then
with the regular tug of four heavy sweeps in the bow； the big
half…decked boat full of men glides out of the black breathless
shadow of the Fort。 The open water of the avant…port glitters
under the moon as if sown over with millions of sequins； and the
long white breakwater shines like a thick bar of solid silver。
With a quick rattle of blocks and one single silky swish； the
sail is filled by a little breeze keen enough to have come
straight down from the frozen moon； and the boat； after the
clatter of the hauled…in sweeps； seems to stand at rest；
surrounded by a mysterious whispering so faint and unearthly that
it may be the rustling of the brilliant； over…powering moonrays
breaking like a rain…shower upon the hard； smooth； shadowless
sea。
I may well remember that last night spent with the pilots of the
Third Company。 I have known the spell of moonlight since； on
various seas and coastscoasts of forests； of rocks； of sand
dunesbut no magic so perfect in its revelation of unsuspected
character； as though one were allowed to look upon the mystic
nature of material things。 For hours I suppose no word was
spoken in that boat。 The pilots seated in two rows facing each
other dozed with their arms folded and their chins resting upon
their breasts。 They displayed a great variety of caps： cloth；
wool； leather； peaks； ear…flaps； tassels； with a picturesque
round beret or two pulled down over the brows； and one
grandfather； with a shaved； bony face and a great beak of a nose；
had a cloak with a hood which made him look in our midst like a
cowled monk being carried off goodness knows where by that silent
company of seamenquiet enough to be dead。
My fingers itched for the tiller and in due course my friend； the
patron； surrendered it to me in the same spirit in which the
family coachman lets a boy hold the reins on an easy bit of road。
There was a great solitude around us； the islets ahead； Monte
Cristo and the Chateau d'If in full light； seemed to float
towards usso steady； so imperceptible was the progress of our
boat。 〃Keep her in the furrow of the moon；〃 the patron directed
me in a quiet murmur； sitting down ponderously in the stern…
sheets and reaching for his pipe。
The pilot station in weather like this was only a mile or two to
the westward of the islets； and presently； as we approached the
spot； the boat we were going to relieve swam into our view
suddenly； on her way home； cutting black and sinister into the
wake of the moon under a sable wing； while to them our sail must
have been a vision of white and dazzling radiance。 Without
altering the course a hair's…breadth we slipped by each other
within an oar's…length。 A drawling sardonic hail came out of
her。 Instantly； as if by magic； our dozing pilots got on their
feet in a body。 An incredible babel of bantering shouts burst
out； a jocular； passionate； voluble chatter； which lasted till
the boats were stern to stern； theirs all bright now and with a
shining sail to our eyes； we turned all black to their vision；
and drawing away from them under a sable wing。 That
extraordinary uproar died away almost as suddenly as it had
begun； first one had enough of it and sat down； then another；
then three or four together； and when all had left off with
mutters and growling half…laughs the sound of hearty chuckling
became audible； persistent； unnoticed。 The cowled grandfather
was very much entertained somewhere within his hood。
He had not joined in the shouting of jokes； neither had he moved
the least