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g industriously and making much money； which he constantly remitted to his trusty agent at home。
Barnum spent some weeks in London and then went to Germany。 He was accompanied by Tom Thumb； and they went by the way of Paris； Strasburg； and Baden…Baden。 At the frontier they had a terrible time with the thick…headed customs…inspector。 This was at Kehl； near Strasburg。 〃I knew；〃 said Barnum in telling the story； 〃that I had no baggage which was rightfully subject to duty； as I had nothing but my necessary clothing； and the package of placards and lithographs； illustrating the General's exhibitions。 As the official was examining my trunks； I assured him in French； that I had nothing subject to duty； but he made no reply and deliberately handled every article in my luggage。 He then cut the strings to the large packages of show…bills。 I asked him in French； whether he understood that language。 He gave a grunt； which was the only audible sound I could get out of him； and then laid my show…bills and lithographs on his scales as if to weigh them。 I was much excited。 An English gentleman； who spoke German； kindly offered to act as my interpreter。
〃 'Please to tell him；' said I； 'that those bills and lithographs are not articles of commerce； that they are simply advertisements。'
〃My English friend did as I requested； but it was of no use； the custom…house officer kept piling them upon his scales。 I grew more excited。
〃 'Please tell him I give them away；' I said。 The translation of my assertion into German did not help me； a double grunt from the functionary； was the only response。 Tom Thumb； meanwhile； jumped about like a little monkey； for he was fairly delighted at my worry and perplexity。 Finally； I said to my new found English friend： 'Be good enough to tell the officer to keep the bills if he wants them； and that I will not pay duty on them； any how。'
〃He was duly informed of my determination； but he was immovable。 He lighted his huge Dutch pipe； got the exact weight； and； marking it down； handed it to a clerk； who copied it on his book； and solemnly passed it over to another clerk； who copied it on still another book； a third clerk then took it； and copied it on to a printed bill； the size of a half letter sheet； which was duly stamped in red ink with several official devices。 By this time I was in a profuse perspiration； and； as the document passed from clerk to clerk； I told them they need not trouble themselves to make out a bill； for I would not pay it； they would get no duty and they might keep the property。
〃To be sure； I could not spare the placards for any length of time； for they were exceedingly valuable to me as advertisements； and I could not easily have duplicated them in Germany； but I was determined that I would not pay duties on articles which were not merchandise。 Every transfer； therefore； of the bill to a new clerk； gave me a fresh twinge； for I imagined that every clerk added more charges； and that every charge was a tighter turn to the vise which held my fingers。 Finally； the last clerk defiantly thrust in my face the terrible official document； on which were scrawled certain cabalistic characters； signifying the amount of money I should be forced to pay to the German government before I could have my property。 I would not touch it but resolved I would really leave my packages until I could communicate with one of our consuls in Germany； and I said as much to the English gentleman who had kindly interpreted for me。
〃He took the bill； and； examining it； burst into a loud laugh； 'Why； it is but fifteen kreutzers！' he said。
〃 'How much is that？' I asked； feeling for the golden sovereigns in my pocket。
〃 'Sixpence！' was the reply。
〃I was astonished and delighted； and； as I handed out the money； I begged him to tell the officials that the custom…house charge would not pay the cost of the paper on which it was written。 But this was a very fair illustration of sundry red…tape dealings in other countries as well as in Germany。〃
Baden…Baden was found to be an uncommonly pleasant place； the neatest and cleanest little city he had ever seen； Barnum thought。 As soon as they were fairly settled there； Tom Thumb began driving out on the streets in his tiny carriage； with his ponies and liveried coachmen and footmen。 Public curiosity was greatly excited。 The place was thronged with visitors； it being one of the most popular resorts in Europe。 There were kings and queens； and minor royalties and members of the nobility without number。 All these soon forgot their other amusements and entertainments in their interest in the little General。 They crowded his rooms at his reception every day； and Barnum； seeing the quality of his patrons； put the entrance fee higher than it ever was at any other place。 Their stay at this resort was exceedingly profitable。
Thence they proceeded to the other German watering places； such as Ems； Weisbaden and Hamburg。 They saw that it paid to strike for high game。 No matter how high their fee； the crowned； titled； rich； aristocratic throng came to their show by thousands。 Among them was the King of Holland； who was particularly interested in Tom Thumb。 So profitable was the tour； that Barnum was able to send many thousands of dollars to his agents in America； to buy back his real estate and settle up the remains of the disastrous clock business。
Other German cities visited were Frankfort…on…the…Main； Mayence and Cologne。 At the latter place； they remained for some time； seeing as well as giving shows。 Then they went on to Rotterdam and Amsterdam。
The shrewd and enterprising Yankee was much impressed by the thrift and industry of Holland。 〃It gave me；〃 he afterwards said； 〃more genuine satisfaction than any other foreign country I have ever visited； if I except Great Britain。 Redeemed as a large portion of the whole surface of the land has been from the bottom of the sea； by the wonderful dykes； which are monuments of the industry of whole generations of human beavers； Holland seems to me the most curious； as well as interesting country in the world。 The people； too； with their quaint costumes； their extraordinary cleanliness； their thrift； industry and frugality； pleased me very much。 It is the universal testimony of all travellers； that the Hollanders are the neatest and most economical people among all nations。 So far as cleanliness is concerned； in Holland it is evidently not next to； but far ahead of godliness。 It is rare； indeed； to meet a ragged； dirty； or drunken person。 The people are very temperate and economical in their habits； and even the very richand there is a vast amount of wealth in the countrylive with great frugality； though all of the people live well。
〃As for the scenery； I cannot say much for it； since it is only diversified by thousands of windmills； which are made to do all kinds of work； from grinding grain to pumping water from the inside of the dykes back to the sea again。 As I exhibited the General only in Rotterdam and Amsterdam； and to no great profit in either city； we spent most of our time in rambling about to see what was to be seen。 In the country villages it seemed as if every house was scrubbed twice and whitewashed once eve