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the eastern foothills； then we struck off to the right；
through haugh…land； and presently； crossing a dry water…
course； entered the Toll road； or； to be more local； entered
on 〃the grade。〃 The road mounts the near shoulder of Mount
Saint Helena； bound northward into Lake County。 In one place
it skirts along the edge of a narrow and deep canyon； filled
with trees； and I was glad； indeed； not to be driven at this
point by the dashing Foss。 Kelmar； with his unvarying smile；
jogging to the motion of the trap； drove for all the world
like a good； plain； country clergyman at home； and I profess
I blessed him unawares for his timidity。
Vineyards and deep meadows； islanded and framed with thicket；
gave place more and more as we ascended to woods of oak and
madrona； dotted with enormous pines。 It was these pines； as
they shot above the lower wood； that produced that pencilling
of single trees I had so often remarked from the valley。
Thence； looking up and from however far； each fir stands
separate against the sky no bigger than an eyelash； and all
together lend a quaint； fringed aspect to the hills。 The oak
is no baby； even the madrona； upon these spurs of Mount Saint
Helena； comes to a fine bulk and ranks with forest trees …
but the pines look down upon the rest for underwood。 As
Mount Saint Helena among her foothills； so these dark giants
out…top their fellow…vegetables。 Alas！ if they had left the
redwoods； the pines； in turn； would have been dwarfed。 But
the redwoods； fallen from their high estate； are serving as
family bedsteads； or yet more humbly as field fences； along
all Napa Valley。
A rough smack of resin was in the air； and a crystal mountain
purity。 It came pouring over these green slopes by the
oceanful。 The woods sang aloud； and gave largely of their
healthful breath。 Gladness seemed to inhabit these upper
zones； and we had left indifference behind us in the valley。
〃I to the hills lift mine eyes！〃 There are days in a life
when thus to climb out of the lowlands； seems like scaling
heaven。
As we continued to ascend； the wind fell upon us with
increasing strength。 It was a wonder how the two stout
horses managed to pull us up that steep incline and still
face the athletic opposition of the wind； or how their great
eyes were able to endure the dust。 Ten minutes after we went
by； a tree fell； blocking the road； and even before us leaves
were thickly strewn； and boughs had fallen； large enough to
make the passage difficult。 But now we were hard by the
summit。 The road crosses the ridge； just in the nick that
Kelmar showed me from below； and then； without pause； plunges
down a deep； thickly wooded glen on the farther side。 At the
highest point a trail strikes up the main hill to the
leftward； and that leads to Silverado。 A hundred yards
beyond； and in a kind of elbow of the glen； stands the Toll
House Hotel。 We came up the one side； were caught upon the
summit by the whole weight of the wind as it poured over into
Napa Valley； and a minute after had drawn up in shelter； but
all buffetted and breathless； at the Toll House door。
A water…tank； and stables； and a gray house of two stories；
with gable ends and a verandah； are jammed hard against the
hillside； just where a stream has cut for itself a narrow
canyon； filled with pines。 The pines go right up overhead； a
little more and the stream might have played； like a fire…
hose； on the Toll House roof。 In front the ground drops as
sharply as it rises behind。 There is just room for the road
and a sort of promontory of croquet ground； and then you can
lean over the edge and look deep below you through the wood。
I said croquet GROUND； not GREEN； for the surface was of
brown； beaten earth。 The toll…bar itself was the only other
note of originality： a long beam； turning on a post； and
kept slightly horizontal by a counterweight of stones。
Regularly about sundown this rude barrier was swung； like a
derrick； across the road and made fast； I think； to a tree
upon the farther side。
On our arrival there followed a gay scene in the bar。 I was
presented to Mr。 Corwin； the landlord； to Mr。 Jennings； the
engineer； who lives there for his health； to Mr。 Hoddy； a
most pleasant little gentleman； once a member of the Ohio
legislature； again the editor of a local paper； and now； with
undiminished dignity； keeping the Toll House bar。 I had a
number of drinks and cigars bestowed on me； and enjoyed a
famous opportunity of seeing Kelmar in his glory； friendly；
radiant； smiling； steadily edging one of the ship's kettles
on the reluctant Corwin。
Corwin； plainly aghast； resisted gallantly； and for that bout
victory crowned his arms。
At last we set forth for Silverado on foot。 Kelmar and his
jolly Jew girls were full of the sentiment of Sunday outings；
breathed geniality and vagueness； and suffered a little vile
boy from the hotel to lead them here and there about the
woods。 For three people all so old； so bulky in body； and
belonging to a race so venerable； they could not but surprise
us by their extreme and almost imbecile youthfulness of
spirit。 They were only going to stay ten minutes at the Toll
House； had they not twenty long miles of road before them on
the other side？ Stay to dinner？ Not they！ Put up the
horses？ Never。 Let us attach them to the verandah by a wisp
of straw rope； such as would not have held a person's hat on
that blustering day。 And with all these protestations of
hurry； they proved irresponsible like children。 Kelmar
himself； shrewd old Russian Jew； with a smirk that seemed
just to have concluded a bargain to its satisfaction；
intrusted himself and us devoutly to that boy。 Yet the boy
was patently fallacious； and for that matter a most
unsympathetic urchin； raised apparently on gingerbread。 He
was bent on his own pleasure； nothing else； and Kelmar
followed him to his ruin； with the same shrewd smirk。 If the
boy said there was 〃a hole there in the hill〃 … a hole； pure
and simple； neither more nor less … Kelmar and his Jew girls
would follow him a hundred yards to look complacently down
that hole。 For two hours we looked for houses； and for two
hours they followed us； smelling trees； picking flowers；
foisting false botany on the unwary。 Had we taken five； with
that vile lad to head them off on idle divagations； for five
they would have smiled and stumbled through the woods。
However； we came forth at length； and as by accident； upon a
lawn； sparse planted like an orchard； but with forest instead
of fruit trees。 That was the site of Silverado mining town。
A piece of ground was levelled up； where Kelmar's store had
been； and facing that we saw Rufe Hanson's house； still
bearing on its front the legend SILVERADO HOTEL。 Not another
sign of habitation。 Silverado town