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strangers； with the sun sparkling on the clean houses； and
great domes of foliage humming overhead in the breeze。
This pleasant Napa Valley is； at its north end； blockaded by
our mountain。 There； at Calistoga； the railroad ceases； and
the traveller who intends faring farther； to the Geysers or
to the springs in Lake County； must cross the spurs of the
mountain by stage。 Thus； Mount Saint Helena is not only a
summit； but a frontier； and； up to the time of writing； it
has stayed the progress of the iron horse。
PART I … IN THE VALLEY
CHAPTER I … CALISTOGA
IT is difficult for a European to imagine Calistoga； the
whole place is so new； and of such an accidental pattern； the
very name； I hear； was invented at a supper…party by the man
who found the springs。
The railroad and the highway come up the valley about
parallel to one another。 The street of Calistoga joins the
perpendicular to both … a wide street； with bright； clean；
low houses； here and there a verandah over the sidewalk； here
and there a horse…post； here and there lounging townsfolk。
Other streets are marked out； and most likely named； for
these towns in the New World begin with a firm resolve to
grow larger； Washington and Broadway； and then First and
Second； and so forth； being boldly plotted out as soon as the
community indulges in a plan。 But； in the meanwhile； all the
life and most of the houses of Calistoga are concentrated
upon that street between the railway station and the road。 I
never heard it called by any name； but I will hazard a guess
that it is either Washington or Broadway。 Here are the
blacksmith's； the chemist's； the general merchant's； and Kong
Sam Kee； the Chinese laundryman's； here； probably； is the
office of the local paper （for the place has a paper … they
all have papers）； and here certainly is one of the hotels；
Cheeseborough's； whence the daring Foss； a man dear to
legend； starts his horses for the Geysers。
It must be remembered that we are here in a land of stage…
drivers and highwaymen： a land； in that sense； like England
a hundred years ago。 The highway robber … road…agent； he is
quaintly called … is still busy in these parts。 The fame of
Vasquez is still young。 Only a few years go； the Lakeport
stage was robbed a mile or two from Calistoga。 In 1879； the
dentist of Mendocino City； fifty miles away upon the coast；
suddenly threw off the garments of his trade； like Grindoff；
in THE MILLER AND HIS MEN； and flamed forth in his second
dress as a captain of banditti。 A great robbery was followed
by a long chase； a chase of days if not of weeks； among the
intricate hill…country； and the chase was followed by much
desultory fighting； in which several … and the dentist； I
believe； amongst the number … bit the dust。 The grass was
springing for the first time； nourished upon their blood；
when I arrived in Calistoga。 I am reminded of another
highwayman of that same year。 〃He had been unwell；〃 so ran
his humorous defence； 〃and the doctor told him to take
something； so he took the express…box。〃
The cultus of the stage…coachman always flourishes highest
where there are thieves on the road； and where the guard
travels armed； and the stage is not only a link between
country and city； and the vehicle of news； but has a faint
warfaring aroma； like a man who should be brother to a
soldier。 California boasts her famous stage…drivers； and
among the famous Foss is not forgotten。 Along the unfenced；
abominable mountain roads； he launches his team with small
regard to human life or the doctrine of probabilities。
Flinching travellers； who behold themselves coasting eternity
at every corner； look with natural admiration at their
driver's huge； impassive； fleshy countenance。 He has the
very face for the driver in Sam Weller's anecdote； who upset
the election party at the required point。 Wonderful tales
are current of his readiness and skill。 One in particular；
of how one of his horses fell at a ticklish passage of the
road； and how Foss let slip the reins； and； driving over the
fallen animal； arrived at the next stage with only three。
This I relate as I heard it； without guarantee。
I only saw Foss once； though； strange as it may sound； I have
twice talked with him。 He lives out of Calistoga； at a
ranche called Fossville。 One evening； after he was long gone
home； I dropped into Cheeseborough's； and was asked if I
should like to speak with Mr。 Foss。 Supposing that the
interview was impossible； and that I was merely called upon
to subscribe the general sentiment； I boldly answered 〃Yes。〃
Next moment； I had one instrument at my ear； another at my
mouth and found myself； with nothing in the world to say；
conversing with a man several miles off among desolate hills。
Foss rapidly and somewhat plaintively brought the
conversation to an end； and he returned to his night's grog
at Fossville； while I strolled forth again on Calistoga high
street。 But it was an odd thing that here； on what we are
accustomed to consider the very skirts of civilization； I
should have used the telephone for the first time in my
civilized career。 So it goes in these young countries；
telephones； and telegraphs； and newspapers； and
advertisements running far ahead among the Indians and the
grizzly bears。
Alone； on the other side of the railway； stands the Springs
Hotel； with its attendant cottages。 The floor of the valley
is extremely level to the very roots of the hills； only here
and there a hillock； crowned with pines； rises like the
barrow of some chieftain famed in war； and right against one
of these hillocks is the Springs Hotel … is or was； for since
I was there the place has been destroyed by fire； and has
risen again from its ashes。 A lawn runs about the house； and
the lawn is in its turn surrounded by a system of little
five…roomed cottages； each with a verandah and a weedy palm
before the door。 Some of the cottages are let to residents；
and these are wreathed in flowers。 The rest are occupied by
ordinary visitors to the Hotel； and a very pleasant way this
is； by which you have a little country cottage of your own；
without domestic burthens； and by the day or week。
The whole neighbourhood of Mount Saint Helena is full of
sulphur and of boiling springs。 The Geysers are famous； they
were the great health resort of the Indians before the coming
of the whites。 Lake County is dotted with spas； Hot Springs
and White Sulphur Springs are the names of two stations on
the Napa Valley railroad； and Calistoga itself seems to
repose on a mere film above a boiling； subterranean lake。 At
one end of the hotel enclosure are the springs from which it
takes its name； hot enough to scald a child seriously while I
was there。 At the other end； the tenant of a co