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Jerusalem。 Here； mountain and house and the old tools of
industry were all alike rusty and downfalling。 The hill was
here wedged up； and there poured forth its bowels in a spout
of broken mineral； man with his picks and powder； and nature
with her own great blasting tools of sun and rain； labouring
together at the ruin of that proud mountain。 The view up the
canyon was a glimpse of devastation； dry red minerals sliding
together； here and there a crag； here and there dwarf thicket
clinging in the general glissade； and over all a broken
outline trenching on the blue of heaven。 Downwards indeed；
from our rock eyrie； we behold the greener side of nature；
and the bearing of the pines and the sweet smell of bays and
nutmegs commanded themselves gratefully to our senses。 One
way and another； now the die was cast。 Silverado be it！
After we had got back to the Toll House； the Jews were not
long of striking forward。 But I observed that one of the
Hanson lads came down； before their departure； and returned
with a ship's kettle。 Happy Hansons！ Nor was it until after
Kelmar was gone； if I remember rightly； that Rufe put in an
appearance to arrange the details of our installation。
The latter part of the day； Fanny and I sat in the verandah
of the Toll House； utterly stunned by the uproar of the wind
among the trees on the other side of the valley。 Sometimes；
we would have it it was like a sea； but it was not various
enough for that； and again； we thought it like the roar of a
cataract； but it was too changeful for the cataract； and then
we would decide； speaking in sleepy voices； that it could be
compared with nothing but itself。 My mind was entirely
preoccupied by the noise。 I hearkened to it by the hour；
gapingly hearkened； and let my cigarette go out。 Sometimes
the wind would make a sally nearer hand； and send a shrill；
whistling crash among the foliage on our side of the glen；
and sometimes a back…draught would strike into the elbow
where we sat； and cast the gravel and torn leaves into our
faces。 But for the most part； this great； streaming gale
passed unweariedly by us into Napa Valley； not two hundred
yards away； visible by the tossing boughs； stunningly
audible； and yet not moving a hair upon our heads。 So it
blew all night long while I was writing up my journal； and
after we were in bed； under a cloudless； starset heaven； and
so it was blowing still next morning when we rose。
It was a laughable thought to us； what had become of our
cheerful； wandering Hebrews。 We could not suppose they had
reached a destination。 The meanest boy could lead them miles
out of their way to see a gopher…hole。 Boys； we felt to be
their special danger； none others were of that exact pitch of
cheerful irrelevancy to exercise a kindred sway upon their
minds： but before the attractions of a boy their most
settled resolutions would be war。 We thought we could follow
in fancy these three aged Hebrew truants wandering in and out
on hilltop and in thicket； a demon boy trotting far ahead；
their will…o'…the…wisp conductor； and at last about midnight；
the wind still roaring in the darkness； we had a vision of
all three on their knees upon a mountain…top around a glow…
worm。
CHAPTER III。 THE RETURN
NEXT morning we were up by half…past five； according to
agreement； and it was ten by the clock before our Jew boys
returned to pick us up。 Kelmar； Mrs。 Kelmar； and Abramina；
all smiling from ear to ear； and full of tales of the
hospitality they had found on the other side。 It had not
gone unrewarded； for I observed with interest that the ship's
kettles； all but one； had been 〃placed。〃 Three Lake County
families； at least； endowed for life with a ship's kettle。
Come； this was no misspent Sunday。 The absence of the
kettles told its own story： our Jews said nothing about
them； but； on the other hand； they said many kind and comely
things about the people they had met。 The two women； in
particular； had been charmed out of themselves by the sight
of a young girl surrounded by her admirers； all evening； it
appeared； they had been triumphing together in the girl's
innocent successes； and to this natural and unselfish joy
they gave expression in language that was beautiful by its
simplicity and truth。
Take them for all in all； few people have done my heart more
good； they seemed so thoroughly entitled to happiness； and to
enjoy it in so large a measure and so free from after…
thought； almost they persuaded me to be a Jew。 There was；
indeed； a chink of money in their talk。 They particularly
commanded people who were well to do。 〃HE don't care … ain't
it？〃 was their highest word of commendation to an individual
fate； and here I seem to grasp the root of their philosophy …
it was to be free from care； to be free to make these Sunday
wanderings； that they so eagerly pursued after wealth； and
all this carefulness was to be careless。 The fine； good
humour of all three seemed to declare they had attained their
end。 Yet there was the other side to it； and the recipients
of kettles perhaps cared greatly。
No sooner had they returned； than the scene of yesterday
began again。 The horses were not even tied with a straw rope
this time … it was not worth while； and Kelmar disappeared
into the bar； leaving them under a tree on the other side of
the road。 I had to devote myself。 I stood under the shadow
of that tree for； I suppose； hard upon an hour； and had not
the heart to be angry。 Once some one remembered me； and
brought me out half a tumblerful of the playful； innocuous
American cocktail。 I drank it； and lo！ veins of living fire
ran down my leg； and then a focus of conflagration remained
seated in my stomach； not unpleasantly； for quarter of an
hour。 I love these sweet； fiery pangs； but I will not court
them。 The bulk of the time I spent in repeating as much
French poetry as I could remember to the horses； who seemed
to enjoy it hugely。 And now it went …
〃O ma vieille Font…georges
Ou volent les rouges…gorges：〃
and again； to a more trampling measure …
〃Et tout tremble； Irun； Coimbre；
Sautander； Almodovar；
Sitot qu'on entend le timbre
Des cymbales do Bivar。〃
The redbreasts and the brooks of Europe； in that dry and
songless land； brave old names and wars； strong cities；
cymbals； and bright armour； in that nook of the mountain；
sacred only to the Indian and the bear！ This is still the
strangest thing in all man's travelling； that he should carry
about with him incongruous memories。 There is no foreign
land； it is the traveller only that is foreign； and now and
again； by a flash of recollection； lights up the contrasts of
the earth。
But while I was thus wandering in my fancy； great feats had
been transacted in the bar。 Corwi