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considered yourself as a decently well appointed gentleman of the woods。
Ten to one； in contrast to the voluntary or enforced simplicity of the
professional woodsman you have looked on your little luxuries of carved
leather hat…band； fancy knife sheath； pearl…handled six…shooter； or khaki
breeches as giving you slightly the air of a forest exquisite。 But on that
depot platform or in presence of that staring group on the steps of the
Pullman； you suddenly discover yourself to be nothing less than a disgrace
to your bringing up。 Nothing could be more evident than the flop of your
hat； the faded； dusty appearance of your blue shirt； the beautiful black
polish of your khakis； the grime of your knuckles； the three days' beard of
your face。 If you are a fool； you worry about it。 If you are a sensible
man； you do not mind；and you prepare for amusing adventures。
The realization of your external unworthiness； however； brings to your
heart the desire for a hot bath in a porcelain tub。 You gloat over the
thought； and when the dream comes to be a reality； you soak away in as
voluptuous a pleasure as ever falls to the lot of man to enjoy。 Then you
shave； and array yourself minutely and preciously in clean clothes from
head to toe； building up a new respectability； and you leave scornfully in a
heap your camping garments。 They have heretofore seemed clean； but
now you would not touch them； no； not even to put them in the soiled…
clothes basket； let your feminines rave as they may。 And for at least two
days you prove an almost childish delight in mere raiment。
But before you can reach this blissful stage you have still to order and
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enjoy your first civilized dinner。 It tastes good； not because your camp
dinners have palled on you； but because your transformation demands its
proper aliment。 Fortunate indeed you are if you step directly to a
transcontinental train or into the streets of a modern town。 Otherwise the
transition through the small…hotel provender is apt to offer too little
contrast for the fullest enjoyment。 But aboard the dining…car or in the
cafe you will gather to yourself such ill…assorted succulence as thick； juicy
beefsteaks； and creamed macaroni； and sweet potatoes； and pie； and red
wine； and real cigars and other things。
In their acquisition your appearance will tell against you。 We were
once watched anxiously by a nervous female head waiter who at last
mustered up courage enough to inform me that guests were not allowed to
eat without coats。 We politely pointed out that we possessed no such
garments。 After a long consultation with the proprietor she told us it was
all right for this time； but that we must not do it again。 At another place I
had to identify myself as a responsible person by showing a picture in a
magazine bought for the purpose。
The public never will know how to take you。 Most of it treats you as
though you were a two…dollar a day laborer； some of the more astute are
puzzled。 One February I walked out of the North Country on snowshoes
and stepped directly into a Canadian Pacific transcontinental train。 I was
clad in fur cap； vivid blanket coat； corded trousers； German stockings and
moccasins； and my only baggage was the pair of snowshoes。 It was the
season of light travel。 A single Englishman touring the world as the crow
flies occupied the car。 He looked at me so askance that I made an
opportunity of talking to him。 I should like to read his 〃Travels〃 to see
what he made out of the riddle。 In similar circumstances； and without
explanation； I had fun talking French and swapping boulevard
reminiscences with a member of a Parisian theatrical troupe making a long
jump through northern Wisconsin。 And once； at six of the morning；
letting myself into my own house with a latch…key； and sitting down to
read the paper until the family awoke； I was nearly brained by the butler。
He supposed me a belated burglar； and had armed himself with the poker。
The most flattering experience of the kind was voiced by a small urchin
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who plucked at his mother's sleeve： 〃Look； mamma！〃 he exclaimed in
guarded but jubilant tones； 〃there's a real Indian！〃
Our last camp of this summer was built and broken in the full leisure
of at least a three weeks' expectation。 We had traveled south from the
Golden Trout through the Toowah range。 There we had viewed wonders
which I cannot expect you to believe in； such as a spring of warm water
in which you could bathe and from which you could reach to dip up a cup
of carbonated water on the right hand； or cast a fly into a trout stream； on
the left。 At length we entered a high meadow in the shape of a maltese
cross； with pine slopes about it； and springs of water welling in little
humps of green。 There the long pine…needles were extraordinarily thick
and the pine… cones exceptionally large。 The former we scraped together
to the depth of three feet for a bed in the lea of a fallen trunk； the latter we
gathered in arm… fuls to pile on the camp…fire。 Next morning we rode
down a mile or so through the grasses； exclaimed over the thousands of
mountain quail buzzing from the creek bottoms； gazed leisurely up at our
well… known pines and about at the grateful coolness of our accustomed
green meadows and leaves；and then； as though we had crossed a
threshold； we emerged into chaparral； dry loose shale； yucca； Spanish
bayonet； heated air and the bleached burned…out furnace…like country of
arid California in midsummer。 The trail dropped down through sage…
brush； just as it always did in the California we had known； the mountains
rose with the fur…like dark…olive effect of the coast ranges； the sun beat hot。
We had left the enchanted land。
The trail was very steep and very long； and took us final