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enough the lake was there； but it had been dry since a previous
geological period。 The fish were undoubtedly there too； but they were
fossil fish。 I borrowed a pickaxe and shovel and announced myself
as ready to start。
Outside the principal saloon in one town hung a gong。 When a
stranger was observed to enter the saloon； that gong was sounded。 Then
it behooved him to treat those who came in answer to the summons。
But when it comes to a case of real hospitality or helpfulness； your
cowboy is there every time。 You are welcome to food and shelter
without price； whether he is at home or not。 Only it is etiquette to leave
your name and thanks pinned somewhere about the place。 Otherwise
your intrusion may be considered in the light of a theft； and you may be
pursued accordingly。
Contrary to general opinion； the cowboy is not a dangerous man to
those not looking for trouble。 There are occasional exceptions； of course；
but they belong to the universal genus of bully； and can be found among
any class。 Attend to your own business； be cool and good…natured； and
your skin is safe。 Then when it is really 〃up to you；〃 be a man； you will
never lack for friends。
The Sierras； especially towards the south where the meadows are wide
and numerous； are full of cattle in small bands。 They come up from the
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desert about the first of June； and are driven back again to the arid
countries as soon as the autumn storms begin。 In the very high land they
are few； and to be left to their own devices； but now we entered a new sort
of country。
Below Farewell Gap and the volcanic regions one's surroundings
change entirely。 The meadows become high flat valleys； often miles in
extent； the mountainswhile registering big on the aneroid are so little
elevated above the plateaus that a few thousand feet is all of their apparent
height； the passes are low； the slopes easy； the trails good； the rock
outcrops few； the hills grown with forests to their very tops。 Altogether it
is a country easy to ride through； rich in grazing； cool and green； with its
eight thousand feet of elevation。 Consequently during the hot months
thousands of desert cattle are pastured here； and with them come many of
the desert men。
Our first intimation of these things was in the volcanic region where
swim the golden trout。 From the advantage of a hill we looked far down
to a hair…grass meadow through which twisted tortuously a brook； and by
the side of the brook； belittled by distance； was a miniature man。 We
could see distinctly his every movement； as he approached cautiously the
stream's edge； dropped his short line at the end of a stick over the bank；
and then yanked bodily the fish from beneath。 Behind him stood his
pony。 We could make out in the clear air the coil of his raw… hide 〃rope；〃
the glitter of his silver bit； the metal points on his saddle skirts； the polish
of his six… shooter； the gleam of his fish； all the details of his costume。
Yet he was fully a mile distant。 After a time he picked up his string of
fish； mounted； and jogged loosely away at the cow…pony's little Spanish
trot toward the south。 Over a week later； having caught golden trout and
climbed Mount Whitney； we followed him and so came to the great central
camp at Monache Meadows。
Imagine an island…dotted lake of grass four or five miles long by two
or three wide to which slope regular shores of stony soil planted with trees。
Imagine on the very edge of that lake an especially fine grove perhaps a
quarter of a mile in length； beneath whose trees a dozen different outfits of
cowboys are camped for the summer。 You must place a herd of ponies in
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the foreground； a pine mountain at the back； an unbroken ridge across
ahead； cattle dotted here and there； thousands of ravens wheeling and
croaking and flapping everywhere； a marvelous clear sun and blue sky。
The camps were mostly open； though a few possessed tents。 They
differed from the ordinary in that they had racks for saddles and
equipments。 Especially well laid out were the cooking arrangements。 A
dozen accommodating springs supplied fresh water with the
conveniently regular spacing of faucets。
Towards evening the men jingled in。 This summer camp was almost
in the nature of a vacation to them after the hard work of the desert。 All
they had to do was to ride about the pleasant hills examining that the cattle
did not stray nor get into trouble。 It was fun for them； and they were in
high spirits。
Our immediate neighbors were an old man of seventy…two and his
grandson of twenty…five。 At least the old man said he was seventy…two。
I should have guessed fifty。 He was as straight as an arrow； wiry； lean；
clear…eyed； and had； without food； ridden twelve hours after some strayed
cattle。 On arriving he threw off his saddle； turned his horse loose； and set
about the construction of supper。 This consisted of boiled meat； strong
tea； and an incredible number of flapjacks built of water； baking…powder；
salt； and flour； warmed throughnot cookedin a frying… pan。 He
deluged these with molasses and devoured three platefuls。 It would have
killed an ostrich； but apparently did this decrepit veteran of seventy…two
much good。
After supper he talked to us most interestingly in the dry cowboy
manner； looking at us keenly from under the floppy brim of his hat。 He
confided to us that he had had to quit smoking； and it ground him he'd
smoked since he was five years old。
〃Tobacco doesn't agree with you any more？〃 I hazarded。
〃Oh； 'taint that；〃 he replied； 〃only I'd ruther chew。〃
The dark fell； and all the little camp…fires under the trees twinkled
bravely forth。 Some of the men sang。 One had an accordion。 Figures；
indistinct and formless； wandered h