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thousand foot level； grows an affair called the snow…plant。 It is； when
full grown； about two feet in height； and shaped like a loosely constructed
pine…cone set up on end。 Its entire substance is like wax； and the whole
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concernstalk； broad curling leaves； and allis a brilliant scarlet。
Sometime you will ride through the twilight of deep pine woods growing
on the slope of the mountain； a twilight intensified； rendered more sacred
to your mood by the external brilliancy of a glimpse of vivid blue sky
above dazzling snow mountains far away。 Then； in this monotone of
dark green frond and dull brown trunk and deep olive shadow； where； like
the ordered library of one with quiet tastes； nothing breaks the harmony of
unobtrusive tone； suddenly flames the vivid red of a snow…plant。 You
will never forget it。
Flowers in general seem to possess this concentrated brilliancy both
of color and of perfume。 You will ride into and out of strata of perfume
as sharply defined as are the quartz strata on the ridges。 They lie
sluggish and cloying in the hollows； too heavy to rise on the wings of the
air。
As for color； you will see all sorts of queer things。 The ordered
flower…science of your childhood has gone mad。 You recognize some of
your old friends； but strangely distorted and changed；even the dear old
〃butter 'n eggs〃 has turned pink！ Patches of purple； of red； of blue； of
yellow； of orange are laid in the hollows or on the slopes like brilliant
blankets out to dry in the sun。 The fine grasses are spangled with them；
so that in the cup of the great fierce countries the meadows seem like
beautiful green ornaments enameled with jewels。 The Mariposa Lily； on
the other hand； is a poppy…shaped flower varying from white to purple；
and with each petal decorated by an 〃eye〃 exactly like those on the great
Cecropia or Polyphemus moths； so that their effect is that of a flock of
gorgeous butterflies come to rest。 They hover over the meadows poised。
A movement would startle them to flight； only the proper movement
somehow never comes。
The great redwoods； too； add to the colored… edition impression of the
whole country。 A redwood； as perhaps you know； is a tremendous big
tree sometimes as big as twenty feet in diameter。 It is exquisitely
proportioned like a fluted column of noble height。 Its bark is slightly
furrowed longitudinally； and of a peculiar elastic appearance that lends it
an almost perfect illusion of breathing animal life。 The color is a rich
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umber red。 Sometimes in the early morning or the late afternoon； when
all the rest of the forest is cast in shadow； these massive trunks will glow
as though incandescent。 The Trail； wonderful always； here seems to pass
through the outer portals of the great flaming regions where dwell the
risings and fallings of days。
As you follow the Trail up； you will enter also the permanent
dwelling…places of the seasons。 With us each visits for the space of a few
months； then steals away to give place to the next。 Whither they go you
have not known until you have traveled the high mountains。 Summer
lives in the valley； that you know。 Then a little higher you are in the
spring… time； even in August。 Melting patches of snow linger under the
heavy firs； the earth is soggy with half…absorbed snow…water； trickling
with exotic little rills that do not belong； grasses of the year before float
like drowned hair in pellucid pools with an air of permanence； except for
the one fact； fresh green things are sprouting bravely； through bare
branches trickles a shower of bursting buds； larger at the top； as though the
Sower had in passing scattered them from above。 Birds of extraordinary
cheerfulness sing merrily to new and doubtful flowers。 The air tastes
cold； but the sun is warm。 The great spring humming and promise is in
the air。 And a few thousand feet higher you wallow over the surface of
drifts while a winter wind searches your bones。 I used to think that Santa
Claus dwelt at the North Pole。 Now I am convinced that he has a
workshop somewhere among the great mountains where dwell the Seasons；
and that his reindeer paw for grazing in the alpine meadows below the
highest peaks。
Here the birds migrate up and down instead of south and north。 It
must be a great saving of trouble to them； and undoubtedly those who
have discovered it maintain toward the unenlightened the same delighted
and fraternal secrecy with which you and I guard the knowledge of a good
trout…stream。 When you can migrate adequately in a single day； why
spend a month at it？
Also do I remember certain spruce woods with openings where the sun
shone through。 The shadows were very black； the sunlight very white。
As I looked back I could see the pack…horses alternately suffer eclipse and
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illumination in a strange flickering manner good to behold。 The dust of
the trail eddied and billowed lazily in the sun； each mote flashing as
though with life； then abruptly as it crossed the sharp line of shade it
disappeared。
From these spruce woods； level as a floor； we came out on the rounded
shoulder of a mountain to find ourselves nearly nine thousand feet above
the sea。 Below us was a deep canon to the middle of the earth。 And
spread in a semicircle about the curve of our mountain a most magnificent
panoramic view。 First there were the plains； represented by a brown haze
of heat； then； very remote； the foot…hills； the brush…hills； the pine
mountains； the upper timb