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just there； we saw far in the distance a sheer slate…colored wall； and
beyond； still farther in the distance； overtopping the slate…colored wall by
a narrow strip； another wall of light azure blue。
〃It's our mountains；〃 said Wes； 〃and that blue ridge is the channel
islands。 We've got up higher than our range。〃
We looked about us； and tried to realize that we were actually more
than halfway up the formidable ridge we had so often speculated on from
the Cold Spring Trail。 But it was impossible。 In a few moments；
however； our broad easy canon narrowed。 Huge crags and sheer masses
of rock hemmed us in。 The chaparral and yucca and yerba buena gave
place to pine…trees and mountain oaks； with little close clumps of
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cottonwoods in the stream bottom。 The brook narrowed and leaped； and
the white of alkali faded from its banks。 We began to climb in good
earnest； pausing often for breath。 The view opened。 We looked back on
whence we had come； and saw again； from the reverse； the forty miles of
ranges and valleys we had viewed from the Ridge Trail。
At this point we stopped to shoot a rattlesnake。 Dinkey and Jenny
took the opportunity to push ahead。 From time to time we would catch
sight of them traveling earnestly on； following the trail accurately；
stopping at stated intervals to rest； doing their work； conducting
themselves as decorously as though drivers had stood over them with
blacksnake whips。 We tried a little to catch up。
〃Never mind；〃 said Wes； 〃they've been over this trail before。 They'll
stop when they get to where we're going to camp。〃
We halted a moment on the ridge to look back over the lesser
mountains and the distant ridge； beyond which the islands now showed
plainly。 Then we dropped down behind the divide into a cup valley
containing a little meadow with running water on two sides of it and big
pines above。 The meadow was brown； to be sure； as all typical
California is at this time of year。 But the brown of California and the
brown of the East are two different things。 Here is no snow or rain to
mat down the grass； to suck out of it the vital principles。 It grows ripe
and sweet and soft； rich with the life that has not drained away； covering
the hills and valleys with the effect of beaver fur； so that it seems the great
round…backed hills must have in a strange manner the yielding flesh…
elasticity of living creatures。 The brown of California is the brown of
ripeness； not of decay。
Our little meadow was beautifully named Madulce；＇1＇ and was just
below the highest point of this section of the Coast Range。 The air drank
fresh with the cool of elevation。 We went out to shoot supper； and so
found ourselves on a little knoll fronting the brown…hazed east。 As we
stood there； enjoying the breeze after our climb； a great wave of hot air
swept by us； filling our lungs with heat； scorching our faces as the breath
of a furnace。 Thus was brought to our minds what； in the excitement of a
new country； we had forgotten；that we were at last on the eastern slope；
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and that before us waited the Inferno of the desert。
＇1＇ In all Spanish names the final e should be pronounced。
That evening we lay in the sweet ripe grasses of Madulce； and talked
of it。 Wes had been across it once before and did not possess much
optimism with which to comfort us。
〃It's hot； just plain hot；〃 said he； 〃and that's all there is about it。 And
there's mighty little water； and what there is is sickish and a long ways
apart。 And the sun is strong enough to roast potatoes in。〃
〃Why not travel at night？〃 we asked。
〃No place to sleep under daytimes；〃 explained Wes。 〃It's better to
keep traveling and then get a chance for a little sleep in the cool of the
night。〃
We saw the reasonableness of that。
〃Of course we'll start early； and take a long nooning； and travel late。
We won't get such a lot of sleep。〃
〃How long is it going to take us？〃
Wes calculated。
〃About eight days；〃 he said soberly。
The next morning we descended from Madulce abruptly by a dirt trail；
almost perpendicular until we slid into a canon of sage…brush and quail； of
mescale cactus and the fierce dry heat of sun…baked shale。
〃Is it any hotter than this on the desert？〃 we inquired。
Wes looked on us with pity。
〃This is plumb arctic；〃 said he。
Near noon we came to a little cattle ranch situated in a flat surrounded
by red dikes and buttes after the manner of Arizona。 Here we unpacked；
early as it was； for through the dry countries one has to apportion his day's
journeys by the water to be had。 If we went farther to…day； then to…
morrow night would find us in a dry camp。
The horses scampered down the flat to search out alfilaria。 We
roosted under a slanting shed；where were stock saddles； silver…mounted
bits and spurs； rawhide riatas； branding…irons； and all the lumber of the
cattle business；and hung out our tongues and gasped for breath and
earnestly desired the sun to go down or a breeze to come up。 The breeze
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shortly did so。 It was a hot breeze； and availed merely to cover us with
dust； to swirl the stable…yard into our faces。 Great swarms of flies buzzed
and lit and stung。 Wes； disgusted； went over to where a solitary cow…
puncher was engaged in shoeing a horse。 Shortly we saw Wes pressed
into service to hold the horse's hoof。 He raised a pathetic face to us； the
big round drops chasing each other down it as fast as rain。 We grinned
and felt better。
The fierce perpendicular rays of the sun beat down。