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the cards ran out； and he left the tablehe was steadily
victorious。 In the evening he went in again for another heavy
bout； at which I chanced to be present； but fortune had forsaken
him； and he not only lost his morning's winnings； but eight
thousand francs to boot。 I do not remember to have ever seen the
tables so crowdedoutside it was thundering； lightening； and
raining as if the world were coming to an end； and the whole
floating population of Wiesbaden was driven into the Kursaal by
the weather。 A roaring time of it had the bank； when play
was over； about which time the rain ceased； hundreds of hot and
thirsty gamblers streamed out of the reeking rooms to the glazed…
in terrace； and the next hour； always the pleasantest of the
twenty…four here and in Hombourgat Ems people go straight from
the tables to bed；was devoted to animated chat and unlimited
sherry…cobbler； all the 〃events〃 of the day were passed in
review； experiences exchanged； and confessions made。 Nobody had
won； I could not hear of a single great successthe bank had had
it all its own way； and most of the 〃lions；〃 worsted in the
fray； had evidently made up their minds to 〃drown it in the
bowl。〃 The Russian detachmenta very strong one this yearwas
especially hard hit； Spain and Italy were both unusually low…
spirited； and there was an extra solemnity about the British
Isles that told its own sad tale。 Englishmen； when they have
lost more than they can afford； generally take it out of
themselves in surly； brooding self…reproach。 Frenchmen give vent
to their disgust and annoyance by abusing the game and its
myrmidons。 You may hear them； loud and savage； on the terrace；
〃Ah！ le salle jeu！ comment peut…on se laisser eplucher par
des brigands de la sorte！ Tripot； infame； va！ je te
donne ma malediction！〃 Italians； again； endeavour to conceal
their discomfiture under a flow of feverish gaiety。 Germans
utter one or two 〃Gotts donnerwetterhimmelsapperment！〃 light up
their cigars； drink a dozen or so 〃hocks；〃 and subside into
their usual state of ponderous cheerfulness。 Russians betray no
emotion whatever over their calamities； save； perhaps； that they
smoke those famous little ‘Laferme' cigarettes a trifle faster
and more nervously than at other times； but they are excellent
winners and magnificent losers； only to be surpassed in either
respect by their old enemy the Turk； who is _facile princeps_ in
the art of hiding his feelings from the outer world。
‘The great mass of visitors at Wiesbaden this season； as at
Hombourg； belong to the middle and lower middle classes； leavened
by a very few celebrities and persons of genuine distinction。
There are a dozen or two eminent men here； not to be seen in the
play…rooms； who are taking the watersLord Clarendon； Baron
Rothschild； Prince Souvarof； and a few morebut the general run
of guests is by no means remarkable for birth； wealth； or
respectability； and we are shockingly off for ladies。 As a
set…off against this deficiency； it would seem that all the aged；
broken…down courtesans of Paris； Vienna； and Berlin have agreed
to make Wiesbaden their autumn rendezvous。 Arrayed in all the
colours of the rainbow； painted up to the roots of their dyed
hair； shamelessly _decolletees_； prodigal of 〃free〃 talk
and unseemly gesture； these ghastly creatures； hideous
caricatures of youth and beauty； flaunt about the play…rooms and
gardens； levying black…mail upon those who are imprudent enough
to engage them in 〃chaff〃 or badinage； and desperately
endeavouring to hook themselves on to the wealthier and younger
members of the male community。 They poison the air round them
with sickly perfumes； they assume titles； and speak of one
another as 〃cette chere comtesse；〃 their walk is something
between a prance and a wriggle； they prowl about the terrace
whilst the music is playing； seeking whom they may devour； or
rather whom they may inveigle into paying for their devouring：
and； _bon Dieu！_ how they do gorge themselves with food and drink
when some silly lad or aged roue allows himself to be bullied
or wheedled into paying their scot！ Their name is legion； and
they constitute the very worst feature of a place which；
naturally a Paradise； is turned into a seventh hell by the
uncontrolled rioting of human passions。 They have no friendsno
〃protectors；〃 they are dependent upon accident for a meal or a
piece of gold to throw away at the tables； they are plague…spots
upon the face of society； they are； as a rule； crassly ignorant
and horribly cynical； and yet there are many men here who are
proud of their acquaintance； always ready to entertain them in
the most expensive manner； and who speak of them as if they were
the only desirable companions in the world！
‘Amongst our notabilities of the eccentric sort； not the least
singular in her behaviour is the Countess Co； an aged
patrician of immense fortune； who is as constant to Wiesbaden as
old Madame de Kf is to Hombourg on the Heights。 Like the
last…named lady； she is daily wheeled to her place in the Black
and Red temple； and plays away for eight or nine hours with
wonderful spirit and perseverance。 She has with her a _suite_ of
eight domestics； and when she wins （which is not often）； on
returning to her hotel at night； she presents each member of her
retinue withtwopence！ 〃not；〃 as she naively avows； 〃from
a feeling of generosity； but to propitiate Fortune。〃 When
she loses； none of them； save the man who wheels her home； get
anything but hard words from her； and he； happy fellow； receives
a donation of six kreutzers。 She does not curse the croupiers
loudly for her bad luck； like her contemporary； the once lovely
Russian Ambassadress； but； being very far advanced in years； and
of a tender disposition； sheds tears over her misfortunes；
resting her chin on the edge of the table。 An edifying sight is
this venerable dame； bearing an exalted title； as she mopes and
mouths over her varying luck； missing her stake twice out of
three times； when she fain would push it with her rake into some
particular section of the table！ She is very intimate with one
or two antediluvian diplomatists and warriors； who are here
striving to bolster themselves up for another year with the
waters； and may be heard crowing out lamentations over her fatal
passion for play； interspersed with bits of moss…grown scandal；
disinterred from the social ruins of an age long past： Radetzky；
Wratislaw （le beau sabreur）； the two Schwarzenbergs （he of
Leipsic； and the former Prime Minister）； Paul Eszterhazy；
Wrangel； and Blucher were friends of her youth； judging from
her appearance； one would not be surprised to hear that she
had received a 〃poulet〃 from Baron Trenck； or played whist with
Maria Theresa。 She has outlived all human friendships or
affections； and exists only for the chink of the gold as it
jingles on the gaming table。 I cannot help fancying that her
last words will be 〃