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he would supply the funds for both overland passages； and they would
start with no unnecessary delay for a country so new that all human
beings； regardless of previous affiliations and convictions； were flung
into the common fusing…pot and recast in the general mold of pioneer。
The offer was a boon to Orion。 He was always eager to forgive； and the
money was vitally necessary。 In the briefest possible time he had packed
his belongings； which included a large unabridged dictionary； and the
brothers were on their way to St。 Louis for final leave…taking before
setting out for the great mysterious land of promisethe Pacific West。
》From St。 Louis they took the boat for St。 Jo； whence the Overland stage
started； and for six days 〃plodded〃 up the shallow； muddy； snaggy
Missouri； a new experience for the pilot of the Father of Waters。
In fact； the boat might almost as well have gone to St。 Jo by land；
for she was walking most of the time； anyhowclimbing over reefs
and clambering over snags patiently and laboriously all day long。
The captain said she was a 〃bully〃 boat； and all she wanted was some
〃shear〃 and a bigger wheel。 I thought she wanted a pair of stilts；
but I had the deep sagacity not to say so。' ＇'Roughing It'。＇
At St。 Jo they paid one hundred and fifty dollars apiece for their stage
fare （with something extra for the dictionary）； and on the twenty…sixth
of July； 1861； set out on that long； delightful trip behind sixteen
galloping horsesor mulesnever stopping except for meals or to change
teams； heading steadily into the sunset； following it from horizon to
horizon over the billowy plains； across the snow…clad Rockies； covering
the seventeen hundred miles between St。 Jo and Carson City （including a
two…day halt in Salt Lake City） in nineteen glorious days。 What an
inspiration in such a trip！ In 'Roughing It' he tells it all； and says：
〃Even at this day it thrills me through and through to think of the life；
the gladness； and the wild sense of freedom that used to make the blood
dance in my face on those fine Overland mornings。〃
The nights； with the uneven mail…bags for a bed and the bounding
dictionary for company； were less exhilarating； but then youth does not
mind。
All things being now ready； stowed the uneasy dictionary where it
would lie as quiet as possible； and placed the water…canteen and
pistols where we could find them in the dark。 Then we smoked a
final pipe and swapped a final yarn； after which we put the pipes；
tobacco； and bag of coin in snug holes and caves among the mail…
bags； and made the place as dark as the inside of a cow； as the
conductor phrased it in his picturesque way。 It was certainly as
dark as any place could benothing was even dimly visible in it。
And finally we rolled ourselves up like silkworms； each person in
his own blanket； and sank peacefully to sleep。
Youth loves that sort of thing； despite its inconvenience。 And sometimes
the clatter of the pony…rider swept by in the night； carrying letters at
five dollars apiece and making the Overland trip in eight days； just a
quick beat of hoofs in the distance； a dash； and a hail from the
darkness； the beat of hoofs again； then only the rumble of the stage and
the even； swinging gallop of the mules。 Sometimes they got a glimpse of
the ponyrider by daya flash； as it were； as he sped by。 And every
morning brought new scenery； new phases of frontier life； including； at
last； what was to them the strangest phase of all； Mormonism。
They spent two wonderful days at Salt Lake City； that mysterious and
remote capital of the great American monarchy； who still flaunts her
lawless； orthodox creed the religion of David and Solomonand thrives。
An obliging official made it his business to show them the city and the
life there； the result of which would be those amusing chapters in
'Roughing It' by and by。 The Overland travelers set out refreshed from
Salt Lake City； and with a new supply of delicaciesham； eggs； and
tobaccothings that make such a trip worth while。 The author of
'Roughing It' assures us of this：
Nothing helps scenery like ham and eggs。 Ham and eggs； and after
these a pipean old； rank； delicious pipeham and eggs and
scenery； a 〃down…grade；〃 a flying coach； a fragrant pipe； and a
contented heartthese make happiness。 It is what all the ages have
struggled for。
But one must read all the story of that long…ago trip。 It was a trip so
well worth taking； so well worth recording； so well worth reading and
rereading to…day。 We can only read of it now。 The Overland stage long
ago made its last trip； and will not start any more。 Even if it did； the
life and conditions； the very scenery itself； would not be the same。
XXXII
THE PIONEER
It was a hot； dusty August 14th that the stage reached Carson City and
drew up before the Ormsby Hotel。 It was known that the Territorial
secretary was due to arrive； and something in the nature of a reception；
with refreshments and frontier hospitality； had been planned。 Governor
Nye； formerly police commissioner in New York City； had arrived a short
time before； and with his party of retainers （〃 heelers 〃 we would call
them now）； had made an imposing entrance。 Perhaps something of the sort
was expected with the advent of the secretary of state。 Instead； the
committee saw two way…worn individuals climb down from the stage；
unkempt； unshornclothed in the roughest of frontier costume； the same
they had put on at St。 Jodusty； grimy； slouchy； and weather…beaten with
long days of sun and storm and alkali desert dust。 It is not likely
there were two more unprepossessing officials on the Pacific coast at
that moment than the newly arrived Territorial secretary and his brother：
Somebody identified them； and the committee melted away； the half…formed
plan of a banquet faded out and was not heard of again。 Soap and water
and fresh garments worked a transformation； but that first impression had
been fatal to festivities of welcome。
Carson City； the capital of Nevada； was a 〃wooden town；〃 with a
population of two thousand souls。 Its main street consisted of a few
blocks of small frame stores； some of which are still standing。 In
'Roughing It' the author writes：
In the middle of the town； opposite the stores； was a 〃Plaza；〃 which
is native to all towns beyond the Rocky Mountains； a large；
unfenced； level vacancy with a Liberty Pole in it； and very useful
as a place for public auctions； horse trades； and mass…meetings； and
likewise for teamsters to camp in。 Two other sides of the Plaza
were faced by stores； offices； and stables。 The rest of Carson City
was pretty scattering。
One sees the place pretty clearly from this brief picture of his； but it
requires an extract from a letter written to his mother somewhat later to
populate it。 The mineral excitement was at its height in those days of
the early sixties； and had brought together such a congress of nations as
only the greed for precious metal can assemble。 The sidewalks and
streets of Ca