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my friends。 I knew where she would be waiting for her crew； in
the little bit of a canal behind the fort at the entrance of the
harbour。 The deserted quays looked very white and dry in the
moonlight； and as if frostbound in the sharp air of that December
night。 A prowler or two slunk by noiselessly； a custom…house
guard； soldier…like； a sword by his side； paced close under the
bowsprits of the long row of ships moored bows on opposite the
long； slightly curved； continuous flat wall of the tall houses
that seemed to be one immense abandoned building with innumerable
windows shuttered closely。 Only here and there a small； dingy
cafe for sailors cast a yellow gleam on the bluish sheen of the
flagstones。 Passing by； one heard a deep murmur of voices
insidenothing more。 How quiet everything was at the end of the
quays on the last night on which I went out for a service cruise
as a guest of the Marseilles pilots！ Not a footstep； except my
own； not a sigh； not a whispering echo of the usual revelry going
on in the narrow； unspeakable lanes of the Old Town reached my
earand suddenly； with a terrific jingling rattle of iron and
glass； the omnibus of the Jolliette on its last journey swung
around the corner of the dead wall which faces across the paved
road the characteristic angular mass of the Fort St。 Jean。 Three
horses trotted abreast； with the clatter of hoofs on the granite
setts； and the yellow； uproarious machine jolted violently behind
them； fantastic； lighted up； perfectly empty； and with the driver
apparently asleep on his swaying perch above that amazing racket。
I flattened myself against the wall and gasped。 It was a stunning
experience。 Then after staggering on a few paces in the shadow
of the fort； casting a darkness more intense than that of a
clouded night upon the canal； I saw the tiny light of a lantern
standing on the quay； and became aware of muffled figures making
toward it from various directions。 Pilots of the Third Company
hastening to embark。 Too sleepy to be talkative； they step on
board in silence。 But a few low grunts and an enormous yawn are
heard。 Somebody even ejaculates： 〃Ah！ Coquin de sort！〃 and sighs
wearily at his hard fate。
The patron of the Third Company （there were five companies of
pilots at that time； I believe） is the brother…in…law of my
friend Solary （Baptistin）； a broad…shouldered； deep chested man
of forty； with a keen； frank glance which always seeks your eyes。
He greets me by a low； hearty 〃He； l'ami。 Comment va？〃 With his
clipped mustache and massive open face； energetic and at the same
time placid in expression； he is a fine specimen of the
southerner of the calm type。 For there is such a type in which
the volatile southern passion is transmuted into solid force。 He
is fair； but no one could mistake him for a man of the north even
by the dim gleam of the lantern standing on the quay。 He is
worth a dozen of your ordinary Normans or Bretons； but then； in
the whole immense sweep of the Mediterranean shores； you could
not find half a dozen men of his stamp。
Standing by the tiller； he pulls out his watch from under a thick
jacket and bends his head over it in the light cast into the
boat。 Time's up。 His pleasant voice commands； in a quiet
undertone； 〃Larguez。〃 A suddenly projected arm snatches the
lantern off the quayand； warped along by a line at first； then
with the regular tug of four heavy sweeps in the bow； the big
half…decked boat full of men glides out of the black； breathless
shadow of the fort。 The open water of the avant…port glitters
under the moon as if sown over with millions of sequins； and the
long white break water shines like a thick bar of solid silver。
With a quick rattle of blocks and one single silky swish； the
sail is filled by a little breeze keen enough to have come
straight down from the frozen moon； and the boat； after the
clatter of the hauled…in sweeps； seems to stand at rest；
surrounded by a mysterious whispering so faint and unearthly that
it may be the rustling of the brilliant； overpowering moon rays
breaking like a rain…shower upon the hard； smooth； shadowless
sea。
I may well remember that last night spent with the pilots of the
Third Company。 I have known the spell of moonlight since； on
various seas and coastscoasts of forests； of rocks； of sand
dunesbut no magic so perfect in its revelation of unsuspected
character； as though one were allowed to look upon the mystic
nature of material things。 For hours I suppose no word was spoken
in that boat。 The pilots； seated in two rows facing each other；
dozed； with their arms folded and their chins resting upon their
breasts。 They displayed a great variety of caps： cloth； wool；
leather； peaks； ear…flaps； tassels； with a picturesque round
beret or two pulled down over the brows； and one grandfather；
with a shaved； bony face and a great beak of a nose； had a cloak
with a hood which made him look in our midst like a cowled monk
being carried off goodness knows where by that silent company of
seamenquiet enough to be dead。
My fingers itched for the tiller； and in due course my friend；
the patron； surrendered it to me in the same spirit in which the
family coachman lets a boy hold the reins on an easy bit of road。
There was a great solitude around us； the islets ahead； Monte
Cristo and the Chateau daft in full light； seemed to float toward
usso steady； so imperceptible was the progress of our boat。
〃Keep her in the furrow of the moon；〃 the patron directed me； in
a quiet murmur； sitting down ponderously in the stern…sheets and
reaching for his pipe。
The pilot station in weather like this was only a mile or two to
the westward of the islets； and presently； as we approached the
spot； the boat we were going to relieve swam into our view
suddenly； on her way home； cutting black and sinister into the
wake of the moon under a sable wing； while to them our sail must
have been a vision of white and dazzling radiance。 Without
altering the course a hair's breadth we slipped by each other
within an oar's length。 A drawling； sardonic hail came out of
her。 Instantly； as if by magic； our dozing pilots got on their
feet in a body。 An incredible babel of bantering shouts burst
out； a jocular； passionate； voluble chatter； which lasted till
the boats were stern to stern； theirs all bright now； and； with a
shining sail to our eyes； we turned all black to their vision；
and drew away from them under a sable wing。 That extraordinary
upro