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foreigners avoid their compatriots and live with their new friends；
while the other group who； from laziness； disinclination； or
principle （？） have remained true to their American circle； cannot
resist calling the others snobs； and laughing （a bit enviously；
perhaps） at their upward struggles。
It is the same in Florence。 The little there was left of an
American society went to pieces on that rock。 Our parents forty
years ago seem to me to have been much more self…respecting and
sensible。 They knew perfectly well that there was nothing in
common between themselves and the Italian nobility； and that those
good people were not going to put themselves out to make the
acquaintance of a lot of strangers； mostly of another religion；
unless it was to be materially to their advantage。 So they left
them quietly alone。 I do not pretend to judge any one's motives；
but confess I cannot help regarding with suspicion a foreigner who
leaves his own circle to mingle with strangers。 It resembles too
closely the amiabilities of the wolf for the lamb； or the sudden
politeness of a school…boy to a little girl who has received a box
of candies。
CHAPTER 37 … The Newport of the Past
FEW of the 〃carriage ladies and gentlemen〃 who disport themselves
in Newport during the summer months； yachting and dancing through
the short season； then flitting away to fresh fields and pastures
new； realize that their daintily shod feet have been treading
historic ground； or care to cast a thought back to the past。 Oddly
enough； to the majority of people the past is a volume rarely
opened。 Not that it bores them to read it； but because they； like
children； want some one to turn over its yellow leaves and point
out the pictures to them。 Few of the human motes that dance in the
rays of the afternoon sun as they slant across the little Park；
think of the fable which asserts that a sea…worn band of
adventurous men； centuries before the Cabots or the Genoese
discoverer thought of crossing the Atlantic； had pushed bravely out
over untried seas and landed on this rocky coast。 Yet one apparent
evidence of their stay tempts our thoughts back to the times when
it is said to have been built as a bower for a king's daughter。
Longfellow； in the swinging verse of his 〃Skeleton in Armor；〃
breathing of the sea and the Norseman's fatal love； has thrown such
a glamour of poetry around the tower； that one would fain believe
all he relates。 The hardy Norsemen； if they ever came here；
succumbed in their struggle with the native tribes； or； discouraged
by death and hardships； sailed away； leaving the clouds of oblivion
to close again darkly around this continent； and the fog of
discussion to circle around the 〃Old Mill。〃
The little settlement of another race； speaking another tongue；
that centuries later sprang up in the shadow of the tower； quickly
grew into a busy and prosperous city； which； like New York； its
rival； was captured and held by the English。 To walk now through
some of its quaint； narrow streets is to step back into
Revolutionary days。 Hardly a house has changed since the time when
the red coats of the British officers brightened the prim
perspectives； and turned loyal young heads as they passed。
At the corner of Spring and Pelham Streets； still stands the
residence of General Prescott； who was carried away prisoner by his
opponents； they having rowed down in whale…boats from Providence
for the attack。 Rochambeau； our French ally； lodged lower down in
Mary Street。 In the tower of Trinity； one can read the epitaph of
the unfortunate Chevalier de Ternay； commander of the sea forces；
whose body lies near by。 Many years later his relative； the Duc de
Noailles； when Minister to this country； had this simple tablet
repaired and made a visit to the spot。
A long period of prosperity followed the Revolution； during which
Newport grew and flourished。 Our pious and God…fearing 〃forbears；〃
having secured personal and religious liberty； proceeded to
inaugurate a most successful and remunerative trade in rum and
slaves。 It was a triangular transaction and yielded a three…fold
profit。 The simple population of that day； numbering less than ten
thousand souls； possessed twenty distilleries； finding it a
physical impossibility to drink ALL the rum； they conceived the
happy thought of sending the surplus across to the coast of Africa；
where it appears to have been much appreciated by the native
chiefs； who eagerly exchanged the pick of their loyal subjects for
that liquid。 These poor brutes were taken to the West Indies and
exchanged for sugar； laden with which； the vessels returned to
Newport。
Having introduced the dusky chieftains to the charms of delirium
tremens and their subjects to life…long slavery； one can almost see
these pious deacons proceeding to church to offer up thanks for the
return of their successful vessels。 Alas！ even 〃the best laid
schemes of mice and men〃 come to an end。 The War of 1812； the
opening of the Erie Canal and sundry railways struck a blow at
Newport commerce； from which it never recovered。 The city sank
into oblivion； and for over thirty years not a house was built
there。
It was not until near 1840 that the Middletons and Izzards and
other wealthy and aristocratic Southern families were tempted to
Newport by the climate and the facilities it offered for bathing；
shooting and boating。 A boarding…house or two sufficed for the
modest wants of the new…comers； first among which stood the
Aquidneck； presided over by kind Mrs。 Murray。 It was not until
some years later； when New York and Boston families began to
appreciate the place； that the first hotels were built； … the
Atlantic on the square facing the old mill； the Bellevue and
Fillmore on Catherine Street； and finally the original Ocean House；
destroyed by fire in 1845 and rebuilt as we see it to…day。 The
croakers of the epoch considered it much too far out of town to be
successful； for at its door the open fields began； a gate there
separating the town from the country across which a straggling；
half…made road； closed by innumerable gates； led along the cliffs
and out across what is now the Ocean Drive。 The principal roads at
that time led inland； any one wishing to drive seaward had to
descend every two or three minutes to open a gate。 The youth of
the day discovered a source of income in opening and closing these
for pennies。
Fashion had decreed that the correct hour for dancing was 11 A。M。；
and MATINEES DANSANTES were regularly given at the hotels； our
grandmothers appearing in DECOLLETE muslin frocks adorned with
broad sashes； and disporting themselves gayly until the dinner
hour。 Low…neck dresses were the rule； not only for these informal
entertainments； but as every…day wear for young girls； … an old
lad