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will bring it down and put it in my parlor。〃
The travellers consulted the residents in their purchases of copies
of the old masters； for there were fashions in these luxuries as in
everything else。 There was a run at that time on the 〃Madonna in
the Chair；〃 and 〃Beatrice Cenci〃 was long prime favorite。
Thousands of the latter leering and winking over her everlasting
shoulder； were solemnly sent home each year。 No one ever dreamed
of buying an original painting！ The tourists also developed a
taste for large marble statues； 〃Nydia； the Blind Girl of Pompeii〃
（people read Bulwer； Byron and the Bible then） being in such demand
that I knew one block in lower Fifth Avenue that possessed seven
blind Nydias； all life…size； in white marble； … a form of
decoration about as well adapted to those scanty front parlors as a
steam engine or a carriage and pair would have been。 I fear
Bulwer's heroine is at a discount now； and often wonder as I see
those old residences turning into shops； what has become of the
seven white elephants and all their brothers and sisters that our
innocent parents brought so proudly back from Italy！ I have
succeeded in locating two statues evidently imported at that time。
They grace the back steps of a rather shabby villa in the country；
… Demosthenes and Cicero； larger than life； dreary； funereal
memorials of the follies of our fathers。
The simple days we have been speaking of did not； however； outlast
the circle that inaugurated them。 About 1867 a few rich New
Yorkers began 〃trying to know the Italians〃 and go about with them。
One family； 〃up to snuff〃 in more senses than one； married their
daughter to the scion of a princely house； and immediately a large
number of her compatriots were bitten with the madness of going
into Italian society。
In 1870； Rome became the capital of united Italy。 The court
removed there。 The 〃improvements〃 began。 Whole quarters were
remodelled； and the dear old Rome of other days； the Rome of
Hawthorne and Madame de Stael； was swept away。 With this new state
of things came a number of Americo…Italian marriages more or less
successful； and anything like an American society； properly so…
called； disappeared。 To…day families of our compatriots passing
the winter months in Rome are either tourists who live in hotels；
and see sights； or go （as far as they can） into Italian society。
The Queen of Italy； who speaks excellent English； developed a
PENCHANT for Americans； and has attached several who married
Italians to her person in different court capacities； indeed； the
old 〃Black〃 society； who have remained true to the Pope； when they
wish to ridicule the new 〃White〃 or royal circle； call it the
〃American court！〃 The feeling is bitter still between the 〃Blacks〃
and 〃Whites；〃 and an American girl who marries into one of these
circles must make up her mind to see nothing of friends or
relatives in the opposition ranks。 It is said that an amalgamation
is being brought about； but it is slow work； a generation will have
to die out before much real mingling of the two courts will take
place。 As both these circles are poor； very little entertainment
goes on。 One sees a little life in the diplomatic world； and the
King and Queen give a ball or two during the winter； but since the
repeated defeats of the Italian arms in Africa； and the heavy
financial difficulties （things these sovereigns take very seriously
to heart）； there has not been much 〃go〃 in the court
entertainments。
The young set hope great things of the new Princess of Naples； the
bride of the heir…apparent； a lady who is credited with being full
of fun and life； it is fondly imagined that she will set the ball
rolling again。 By the bye； her first lady…in…waiting； the young
Duchess del Monte of Naples； was an American girl； and a very
pretty one； too。 She enjoyed for some time the enviable
distinction of being the youngest and handsomest duchess in Europe；
until Miss Vanderbilt married Marlborough and took the record from
her。 The Prince and Princess of Naples live at their Neapolitan
capital； and will not do much to help things in Rome。 Besides
which he is very delicate and passes for not being any too fond of
the world。
What makes things worse is that the great nobles are mostly 〃land
poor；〃 and even the richer ones burned their fingers in the craze
for speculation that turned all Rome upside down in the years
following 1870 and Italian unity； when they naively imagined their
new capital was to become again after seventeen centuries the
metropolis of the world。 Whole quarters of new houses were run up
for a population that failed to appear； these houses now stand
empty and are fast going to ruin。 So that little in the way of
entertaining is to be expected from the bankrupts。 They are a
genial race； these Italian nobles； and welcome rich strangers and
marry them with much enthusiasm … just a shade too much； perhaps …
the girl counting for so little and her DOT for so much in the
matrimonial scale。 It is only necessary to keep open house to have
the pick of the younger ones as your guests。 They will come to
entertainments at American houses and bring all their relations；
and dance； and dine； and flirt with great good humor and
persistency； but if there is not a good solid fortune in the
background； in the best of securities； the prettiest American
smiles never tempt them beyond flirtation； the season over； they
disappear up into their mountain villas to wait for a new
importation from the States。
In Rome； as well as in the other Italian cities； there are； of
course； still to be found Americans in some numbers （where on the
Continent will you not find them？）； living quietly for study or
economy。 But they are not numerous or united enough to form a
society； and are apt to be involved in bitter strife among
themselves。
Why； you ask； should Americans quarrel among themselves？
Some years ago I was passing the summer months on the Rhine at a
tiny German watering…place； principally frequented by English； who
were all living together in great peace and harmony； until one
fatal day； when an Earl appeared。 He was a poor Irish Earl； very
simple and unoffending； but he brought war into that town； heart…
burnings； envy； and backbiting。 The English colony at once divided
itself into two camps； those who knew the Earl and those who did
not。 And peace fled from our little society。 You will find in
every foreign capital among the resident Americans； just such a
state of affairs as convulsed that German spa。 The native 〃swells〃
have come to be the apple of discord that divides our good people
among themselves。 Those who have been successful in knowing the
foreigners avoid their compatriots and live with their new friends；
while the other group who； from laziness； disinclinat