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almost to her waist； at the extreme back of her head was placed a
black and rose…colored bonnet； open 〃flowing〃 sleeves showed her
bare arms； one…buttoned； straw…colored gloves； and ruby bracelets；
she carried a tiny rose…colored parasol not a foot in diameter。
How England's great sovereign was dressed the writer of the journal
does not so well remember； for in those days Eugenie was the
cynosure of all eyes； and people rarely looked at anything else
when they could get a glimpse of her lovely face。
It appears； however； that the Queen sported an India shawl； hoops；
and a green bonnet； which was not particularly becoming to her red
face。 She and Napoleon entered the building first； the Empress
（who was in delicate health） was carried in an open chair； with
Prince Albert walking at her side； a marvellously handsome couple
to follow the two dowdy little sovereigns who preceded them。 The
writer had by bribery succeeded in getting places in an ENTRESOL
window under the archway； and was greatly impressed to see those
four great ones laughing and joking together over Eugenie's trouble
in getting her hoops into the narrow chair！
What changes have come to that laughing group！ Two are dead； one
dying in exile and disgrace； and it would be hard to find in the
two rheumatic old ladies whom one sees pottering about the Riviera
now； any trace of those smiling wives。 In France it is as if a
tidal wave had swept over Napoleon's court。 Only the old palace
stood severely back from the Champs Elysees； as if guarding its
souvenirs。 The pick of the mason has brought down the proud
gateway which its imperial builder fondly imagined was to last for
ages。 The Tuileries preceded it into oblivion。 The Alpha and
Omega of that gorgeous pageant of the fifties vanished like a
mirage！
It is not here alone one finds Paris changing。 A railway is being
brought along the quais with its depot at the Invalides。 Another
is to find its terminus opposite the Louvre； where the picturesque
ruin of the Cour des Comptes has stood half…hidden by the trees
since 1870。 A line of electric cars crosses the Rond Point； in
spite of the opposition of all the neighborhood； anxious to keep；
at least that fine perspective free from such desecration。 And；
last but not least； there is every prospect of an immense system of
elevated railways being inaugurated in connection with the coming
world's fair。 The direction of this kind of improvement is
entirely in the hands of the Municipal Council； and that body has
become （here in Paris） extremely radical； not to say communistic；
and takes pleasure in annoying the inhabitants of the richer
quarters of the city； under pretext of improvements and facilities
of circulation。
It is easy to see how strong the feeling is against the
aristocratic class。 Nor is it much to be wondered at！ The
aristocracy seem to try to make themselves unpopular。 They detest
the republic； which has shorn them of their splendor； and do
everything in their power （socially and diplomatically their power
is still great） to interfere with and frustrate the plans of the
government。 Only last year they seized an opportunity at the
funerals of the Duchesse d'Alencon and the Duc d'Aumale to make a
royalist manifestation of the most pronounced character。 The young
Duchesse d'Orleans was publicly spoken of and treated as the 〃Queen
of France；〃 at the private receptions given during her stay in
Paris the same ceremonial was observed as if she had been really on
the throne。 The young Duke； her husband； was not present； being in
exile as a pretender； but armorial bearings of the 〃reigning
family；〃 as their followers insist on calling them； were hung
around the Madeleine and on the funeral…cars of both the
illustrious dead。
The government is singularly lenient to the aristocrats。 If a poor
man cries 〃Long live the Commune！〃 in the street； he is arrested。
The police； however； stood quietly by and let a group of the old
nobility shout 〃Long live the Queen！〃 as the train containing the
young Duchesse d'Orleans moved out of the station。 The secret of
this leniency toward the 〃pretenders〃 to the throne； is that they
are very little feared。 If it amuses a set of wealthy people to
play at holding a court； the strong government of the republic
cares not one jot。 The Orleans family have never been popular in
France； and the young pretender's marriage to an Austrian
Archduchess last year has not improved matters。
It is the fashion in the conservative Faubourg St。 Germain； to
ridicule the President； his wife and their bourgeois surroundings；
as forty years ago the parents of these aristocrats affected to
despise the imperial PARVENUS。 The swells amused themselves during
the official visit of the Emperor and Empress of Russia last year
（which was gall and wormwood to them） by exaggerating and repeating
all the small slips in etiquette that the President； an
intelligent； but simple…mannered gentleman； was supposed to have
made during the sojourn of his imperial guests。
Both M。 and Mme。 Faure are extremely popular with the people； and
are heartily cheered whenever they are seen in public。 The
President is the despair of the lovers of routine and etiquette；
walking in and out of his Palais of the Elysee； like a private
individual； and breaking all rules and regulations。 He is fond of
riding； and jogs off to the Bois of a morning with no escort； and
often of an evening drops in at the theatres in a casual way。 The
other night at the Francais he suddenly appeared in the FOYER DES
ARTISTES （A beautiful greenroom； hung with historical portraits of
great actors and actresses； one of the prides of the theatre） in
this informal manner。 Mme。 Bartet； who happened to be there alone
at the time； was so impressed at such an unprecedented event that
she fainted； and the President had to run for water and help revive
her。 The next day he sent the great actress a beautiful vase of
Sevres china； full of water； in souvenir。
To a lover of old things and old ways any changes in the Paris he
has known and loved are a sad trial。 Henri Drumont； in his
delightful MON VIEUX PARIS； deplores this modern mania for reform
which has done such good work in the new quarters but should； he
thinks； respect the historic streets and shady squares。
One naturally feels that the sights familiar in youth lose by being
transformed and doubts the necessity of such improvements。
The Rome of my childhood is no more！ Half of Cairo was ruthlessly
transformed in sixty…five into a hideous caricature of modern
Paris。 Milan has been remodelled； each city losing in charm as it
gained in convenience。
So far Paris has held her own。 The spirit of the city has not been
lost； as in the other capitals。 The fair metropolis of France； in
spite of many tran