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worldly ways and byways-第23章

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elaborate costume; of which little remained but the bead…work。  

That it was the tomb of a man great among his people was evident 

from the care with which the grave had been prepared and then 

hidden; proving how; hundreds of years before our civilization; 

another race had chosen this noble cliff and stately river 

landscape as the fitting framework for a great warrior's tomb。



This discovery made no little stir in the scientific world of that 

day。  Hundreds came to see it; and as photography had not then come 

into the world; many drawings were made and casts taken; and 

finally the whole thing was removed to the rooms of the Historical 

Society。  From that day the lonely little path held an awful charm 

for us。  Our childish readings of Cooper had developed in us that 

love of the Indian and his wild life; so characteristic of boyhood 

thirty years ago。  On still summer afternoons; the place had a 

primeval calm that froze the young blood in our veins。  Although we 

prided ourselves on our quality as 〃braves;〃 and secretly pined to 

be led on the war…path; we were shy of walking in that vicinity in 

daylight; and no power on earth; not even the offer of the tomahawk 

or snow…shoes for which our souls longed; would have taken us there 

at night。



A place connected in my memory with a tragic association was across 

the river on the last southern slope of the Palisades。  Here we 

stood breathless while my father told the brief story of the duel 

between Burr and Hamilton; and showed us the rock stained by the 

younger man's life…blood。  In those days there was a simple iron 

railing around the spot where Hamilton had expired; but of later 

years I have been unable to find any trace of the place。  The tide 

of immigration has brought so deep a deposit of 〃saloons〃 and 

suburban 〃balls〃 that the very face of the land is changed; old 

lovers of that shore know it no more。  Never were the environs of a 

city so wantonly and recklessly degraded。  Municipalities have vied 

with millionaires in soiling and debasing the exquisite shores of 

our river; that; thirty years ago; were unrivalled the world over。



The glamour of the past still lies for me upon this landscape in 

spite of its many defacements。  The river whispers of boyish 

boating parties; and the woods recall a thousand childish hopes and 

fears; resolute departures to join the pirates; or the red men in 

their strongholds … journeys boldly carried out until twilight 

cooled our courage and the supper…hour proved a stronger temptation 

than war and carnage。



When I sat down this summer evening to write a few lines about 

happy days on the banks of the Hudson; I hardly realized how sweet 

those memories were to me。  The rewriting of the old names has 

evoked from their long sleep so many loved faces。  Arms seem 

reaching out to me from the past。  The house is very still tonight。  

I seem to be nearer my loved dead than to the living。  The bells of 

my lost 〃Is〃 are ringing clear in the silence。









CHAPTER 17 … Royalty At Play





FEW more amusing sights are to be seen in these days; than that of 

crowned heads running away from their dull old courts and 

functions; roughing it in hotels and villas; gambling; yachting and 

playing at being rich nobodies。  With much intelligence they have 

all chosen the same Republican playground; where visits cannot 

possibly be twisted into meaning any new 〃combination〃 or political 

move; thus assuring themselves the freedom from care or 

responsibility; that seems to be the aim of their existence。  

Alongside of well…to…do Royalties in good paying situations; are 

those out of a job; who are looking about for a 〃place。〃  One 

cannot take an afternoon's ramble anywhere between Cannes and 

Mentone without meeting a half…dozen of these magnates。



The other day; in one short walk; I ran across three Empresses; two 

Queens; and an Heir…apparent; and then fled to my hotel; fearing to 

be unfitted for America; if I went on 〃keeping such company。〃  They 

are knowing enough; these wandering great ones; and after trying 

many places have hit on this charming coast as offering more than 

any other for their comfort and enjoyment。  The vogue of these 

sunny shores dates from their annexation to France; … a price 

Victor Emmanuel reluctantly paid for French help in his war with 

Austria。  Napoleon III。's demand for Savoy and this littoral; was 

first made known to Victor Emmanuel at a state ball at Genoa。  

Savoy was his birthplace and his home!  The King broke into a wild 

temper; cursing the French Emperor and making insulting allusions 

to his parentage; saying he had not one drop of Bonaparte blood in 

his veins。  The King's frightened courtiers tried to stop this 

outburst; showing him the French Ambassador at his elbow。  With a 

superhuman effort Victor Emmanuel controlled himself; and turning 

to the Ambassador; said:



〃I fear my tongue ran away with me!〃  With a smile and a bow the 

great French diplomatist remarked:



〃SIRE; I am so deaf I have not heard a word your Majesty has been 

saying!〃



The fashion of coming to the Riviera for health or for amusement; 

dates from the sixties; when the Empress of Russia passed a winter 

at Nice; as a last attempt to prolong the existence of the dying 

Tsarewitsch; her son。  There also the next season the Duke of 

Edinburgh wooed and won her daughter (then the greatest heiress in 

Europe) for his bride。  The world moves fast and a journey it 

required a matter of life and death to decide on; then; is gayly 

undertaken now; that a prince may race a yacht; or a princess try 

her luck at the gambling tables。  When one reflects that the 〃royal 

caste;〃 in Europe alone; numbers some eight hundred people; and 

that the East is beginning to send out its more enterprising 

crowned heads to get a taste of the fun; that beyond drawing their 

salaries; these good people have absolutely nothing to do; except 

to amuse themselves; it is no wonder that this happy land is 

crowded with royal pleasure…seekers。



After a try at Florence and Aix; 〃the Queen〃 has been faithful to 

Cimiez; a charming site back of Nice。  That gay city is always EN 

FETE the day she arrives; as her carriages pass surrounded by 

French cavalry; one can catch a glimpse of her big face; and dowdy 

little figure; which nevertheless she can make so dignified when 

occasion requires。  The stay here is; indeed; a holiday for this 

record…breaking sovereign; who potters about her private grounds of 

a morning in a donkey…chair; sunning herself and watching her 

Battenberg grandchildren at play。  In the afternoon; she drives a 

couple of hours … in an open carriage … one outrider in black 

livery alone distinguishing her turnout from the others。



The Prince of Wales makes his headquarters at Cannes where he has 

poor luck in sailing the Brittania; for which he consoles himself 

with jol
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